Got a little time to start tinkering with the first of my propane gun builds a couple of days ago and decided to post the pics here for anybody who may be interested. If the topic needs to be moved to some other section, that will be fine.
For those new to the subject, the propane guns are an attempt to fill the MG role in WWII German reenactment. Because the average Joe -- nea, Fritz -- simply can't drop the tens of thousands of dollars necessary for purchasing, legalizing, and feeding a full auto machine gun, the propane gun has emerged as a substitute -- with mixed results at times.
The usual route to constructing a propane gun has involved some of the priliminary steps necessary to building a semi-auto gun -- ie, purchasing and rebuilding a demilitarized weapon to be used as the platform for the modified gun. As with the SA builds, this process necessitated the procurement and reconstruction of a demilled receiver, and it is this step that has made any MG42 (and MG34) project increasingly difficult and expensive as the supply of "cut" receivers has dried up.
This shortage of replacement receiver sections will likely be eased with the introduction of new-production stampings from BRP, Wiselite, and others. Nonetheless, I have decided to fabricate my own replacement receiver section in order to make more real estate available for the necessary propane gun components -- ie, the expansion chamber with its attendant spark plug, coil, and fuel orifices; the solenoids; and other components such as gas lines and wiring harnesses.
My partner on these propane gun builds had already arranged for a machine shop to build a new threaded sleeve for the screw-on "recoil booster." We intend to forego using the original MG42 barrel for our propane guns, as the 8mm bore simply does not allow the propane charge to move enough air thru the barrel. We will instead use a thin-walled steel "barrel" with a minimum O.D. of 5/8". Naturally, the original barrel guide bushing and nozzle will not be used with the new barrel.
The first photo is of the newly-made barrel sleeve. It is sized to simply slide inside the remains of the original barrel bushing sleeve which was torch-cut from the front of the barrel shroud section of the MG42 receiver. The proper depth of the new bushing will need to be determined by the interaction between the recoil booster and the booster detent arm. Once positioned, the sleeve will be welded into the shroud, and the weld will be dressed to resemble the crimping that secured the original barrel bushing sleeve.
MG42 Propane Gun Build
MG42 Propane Gun Build
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At this point, I intend to construct the "receiver" in two stages.
In the first stage I will fabricate a rough receiver section from 16 guage sheet steel simply because I don't have my own shop right now, and this lighter guage sheet will allow me to do most of my construction using hand tools at home and my son's welder at his business. A local contractor also gave me an hour with his metal brake.
I'll use this 16 guage receiver to test-fit parts, get the dimensions I need, and to serve as a general springboard for ideas and experimentation.
Once the "little" receiver has given me a useable pattern for the final fabrication, I'll take it to a professional metal shop nearby and pay him to bend the receiver body from .1" (2mm) sheet steel. I'll probably have several copies made in case I decide to build more propane guns later.
In order to provide maximum space inside the receiver, I will make it out of a rectangular steel tube with none of the interior features of a "real" receiver stamping. For example, the side profile of the tube will remain constant from front to rear, rather than "cascading" downward in the area of the feed tray. This will provide an extra 10mm interior height. Likewise, the charging handle channel will be eliminated for a gain of 12mm in floor width. I do plan, however, to create the illusion of a charging handle channel by fabricating and installing a ratchet plate in its normal location. With a dummy charging handle in place, the channel will appear to be there.
I started fabrication of the receiver section by bending a "U" channel 54mm wide, 47mm tall, and 43cm long. This first attempt failed because I didn't pay close enough attention to the radius of the corners. My first attempt yeilded corners that were too square and didn't comform to the shape of the interior of the camming piece. My second attempt was closer, but still required welding the corners and radiusing them with a Dremel tool. The resulting corners now mate to the inside camming piece very tightly.
The next step was properly locating the top cover, which in turn allowed me to accurately locate the camming piece, which is used on the propane gun only as a hinge for the topcover and a latch for the barrel change door. Using an original receiver, I measured the top plate of the receiver from the rear (where the buttstock attaches) to the point where the top cover latch engages the receiver. I then cut a piece of sheet steel the same size and welded it to the top-rear of the "U" tube.
This is a difficult proceedure to describe. I think you can see the result in the following picures:
In the first stage I will fabricate a rough receiver section from 16 guage sheet steel simply because I don't have my own shop right now, and this lighter guage sheet will allow me to do most of my construction using hand tools at home and my son's welder at his business. A local contractor also gave me an hour with his metal brake.
I'll use this 16 guage receiver to test-fit parts, get the dimensions I need, and to serve as a general springboard for ideas and experimentation.
Once the "little" receiver has given me a useable pattern for the final fabrication, I'll take it to a professional metal shop nearby and pay him to bend the receiver body from .1" (2mm) sheet steel. I'll probably have several copies made in case I decide to build more propane guns later.
In order to provide maximum space inside the receiver, I will make it out of a rectangular steel tube with none of the interior features of a "real" receiver stamping. For example, the side profile of the tube will remain constant from front to rear, rather than "cascading" downward in the area of the feed tray. This will provide an extra 10mm interior height. Likewise, the charging handle channel will be eliminated for a gain of 12mm in floor width. I do plan, however, to create the illusion of a charging handle channel by fabricating and installing a ratchet plate in its normal location. With a dummy charging handle in place, the channel will appear to be there.
I started fabrication of the receiver section by bending a "U" channel 54mm wide, 47mm tall, and 43cm long. This first attempt failed because I didn't pay close enough attention to the radius of the corners. My first attempt yeilded corners that were too square and didn't comform to the shape of the interior of the camming piece. My second attempt was closer, but still required welding the corners and radiusing them with a Dremel tool. The resulting corners now mate to the inside camming piece very tightly.
The next step was properly locating the top cover, which in turn allowed me to accurately locate the camming piece, which is used on the propane gun only as a hinge for the topcover and a latch for the barrel change door. Using an original receiver, I measured the top plate of the receiver from the rear (where the buttstock attaches) to the point where the top cover latch engages the receiver. I then cut a piece of sheet steel the same size and welded it to the top-rear of the "U" tube.
This is a difficult proceedure to describe. I think you can see the result in the following picures:
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Last edited by gdmoore28 on Fri Dec 15, 2006 10:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
With the top cover now located on the receiver tube, I was able to mark the proper location of the camming piece. In this case, the front of the camming piece needed to be 31mm from the "front" of the receiver tube. Because I wanted to make the front of the receiver tube rigid, especially under the camming piece, I cut a piece of 16 guage sheet steel 55mm wide and 88mm long and welded it atop the forward section of the tube. Using the camming piece as a guide, I used a Dremel to radius the corner welds to conform to the inside of the camming piece.
I then slid the camming piece on the front end of the receiver tube, and marked the vertical width of the camming lobes with a fine felt-tip pen. Using the Dremel tool with a reenforced cutoff wheel, I cut the width of the camming lobes rearward into the sides of the receiver tube to a point centered between the sides of the camming piece location.
Again, describing this process is a bit convoluted, and the photos give a much clearer description:
I then slid the camming piece on the front end of the receiver tube, and marked the vertical width of the camming lobes with a fine felt-tip pen. Using the Dremel tool with a reenforced cutoff wheel, I cut the width of the camming lobes rearward into the sides of the receiver tube to a point centered between the sides of the camming piece location.
Again, describing this process is a bit convoluted, and the photos give a much clearer description:
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The end result of this process is that I now have a very good idea about how to proceed on refining this receiver. As you can see in the following photos, the familiar shape of the MG42 is beginning to emerge from this convoluted mess, and it's beginning to resemble a machine gun again.
Hopefully, this weekend I will get a chance to configure the Fire Control Group attachment brackets, the buttstock attachment and lock (the buffer assembly is being deleted to save even more interior space), and the ratchet plate assembly. I'll also be shortening and further shaping the front end of the new receiver section so that it properly mates with the original barrel shroud section.
As always, your observations, suggestions, and constructive comments are most welcome.
Hopefully, this weekend I will get a chance to configure the Fire Control Group attachment brackets, the buttstock attachment and lock (the buffer assembly is being deleted to save even more interior space), and the ratchet plate assembly. I'll also be shortening and further shaping the front end of the new receiver section so that it properly mates with the original barrel shroud section.
As always, your observations, suggestions, and constructive comments are most welcome.
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" The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government . . . . When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fear the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
gdmoore28,
I am very impressed with you work in an area (gas/propane-firing guns). These do have a place with some of the reenacting units in states that do not allow Class III ownership....such as those unit up in Washington State.
Let us know more as you move along in this project as far as modification, parts, costs of certain parts such as circuit-boards......battery.....hoses...valves...containers for the Oxy. and Propane......and then the best adjustments to your system to replicate the 1,200 RPM of the MG42.
I do know that the man that was listed as a POC for some of the circuit-boards had two different speeds that you could purchase......the fast for MG42 and MG34.....and a slightly slower version that was more in line with the older Maxim MG08/Vickers series MGs.
A couple of observations that may give your Gas-Gun a more authentic look (which I am sure that you thought about.....
1: Ratchet-Plate on the right-rear (?)
2: Rail-Rivets and the small indentations around them (?)
3: Maybe some engraving of the Left-Rear area by one of the more proficient engravers that do firearms engraving (?)
Have you had a chance to go view the web-pages for the Fallschirmjager unit out in Washington State yet (?). They had many photos of the insides of their Gas-Guns (both MG42 and MG34)....and even a short video of them firing.
Regards, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
I am very impressed with you work in an area (gas/propane-firing guns). These do have a place with some of the reenacting units in states that do not allow Class III ownership....such as those unit up in Washington State.
Let us know more as you move along in this project as far as modification, parts, costs of certain parts such as circuit-boards......battery.....hoses...valves...containers for the Oxy. and Propane......and then the best adjustments to your system to replicate the 1,200 RPM of the MG42.
I do know that the man that was listed as a POC for some of the circuit-boards had two different speeds that you could purchase......the fast for MG42 and MG34.....and a slightly slower version that was more in line with the older Maxim MG08/Vickers series MGs.
A couple of observations that may give your Gas-Gun a more authentic look (which I am sure that you thought about.....
1: Ratchet-Plate on the right-rear (?)
2: Rail-Rivets and the small indentations around them (?)
3: Maybe some engraving of the Left-Rear area by one of the more proficient engravers that do firearms engraving (?)
Have you had a chance to go view the web-pages for the Fallschirmjager unit out in Washington State yet (?). They had many photos of the insides of their Gas-Guns (both MG42 and MG34)....and even a short video of them firing.
Regards, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
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88comm
- Stabshauptmann
- Posts: 177
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:31 pm
- Location: South Central Pennsylvania
If you make other gas MG 42's have the sheet metal shop see about bending your receiver with larger radiuses (radii?) on the edges. Some shops can do this by pressing the metal to be bent into hard rubber, with a wider radius blade. For the length you are doing it shouldn't be too much trouble.
Looks like a neat project. Your process is well thought out - good luck and, as others have said, keep us posted.
Chris
Looks like a neat project. Your process is well thought out - good luck and, as others have said, keep us posted.
Chris
Thanks for the encouragement, guys, and especially for the suggestions. I'm making note of every idea you pass along, and I'll definitely incorporate them. I'm keeping a running account of my expenses and sources for parts and services and I'll be posting them here for anybody who may be interested.
Adding the ratchet plate is definitely going to happen, and I've been making drawings of potential means of replicating the rail rivets and indentations. Right now I'm trying to figure a way to form the proper contours in the tube where it meets the buttstock at the rear. I'm eliminating the buffer assembly from the buttstock and will be fabricating an upper and lower "tongue" that will extend into the tube from the buttstock frame and be held in place by four black anodized round-headed machine screws that are exactly the same diameter as the rivets that normally secure the buttstock locking plates. (Knew I'd been saving those for something.)
I've already spoken to the gentleman in Tennesee who builds the circuit boards for the propane guns, and you're correct about the speed adjustments. I'll give information about him and his products as soon as we get our parts.
The proper radius for the final receiver tube assembly is going to be a priority. I bent this receiver using a local contractor's metal brake, and it was the first time I'd ever used one. The improper radius issue became my first real hurdle in the build so far. I ended up welding the corners in order to build up the metal thickness, then grinding them down to a radius large enough to conform to the inside of the camming piece. Crude, but I learned a lot about how to do it right next time.
Adding the ratchet plate is definitely going to happen, and I've been making drawings of potential means of replicating the rail rivets and indentations. Right now I'm trying to figure a way to form the proper contours in the tube where it meets the buttstock at the rear. I'm eliminating the buffer assembly from the buttstock and will be fabricating an upper and lower "tongue" that will extend into the tube from the buttstock frame and be held in place by four black anodized round-headed machine screws that are exactly the same diameter as the rivets that normally secure the buttstock locking plates. (Knew I'd been saving those for something.)
I've already spoken to the gentleman in Tennesee who builds the circuit boards for the propane guns, and you're correct about the speed adjustments. I'll give information about him and his products as soon as we get our parts.
The proper radius for the final receiver tube assembly is going to be a priority. I bent this receiver using a local contractor's metal brake, and it was the first time I'd ever used one. The improper radius issue became my first real hurdle in the build so far. I ended up welding the corners in order to build up the metal thickness, then grinding them down to a radius large enough to conform to the inside of the camming piece. Crude, but I learned a lot about how to do it right next time.
This afternoon I had a chance to experiment with fitting the FCG to the dummy receiver. First thought was to simply mount it directly to the bottom of the receiver, but that approach was rejected for two reasons: 1) it intrudes too far into the reciever, thereby violating my "Max-Space" guideline, and 2) it looks funky that way, as you can see from the picture.
The gripstick on the real receiver section is mounted slightly above (below?) the main structure of the receiver on a slight rise that runs from the rear of the receiver to just in front of the gripstick. There is a corresponding rise on the top of the receiver that extends from the rear to just behind the topcover. These two shapes are echoed in the buttstock shape where it connects to the receiver. So, the next logical step would be to mimic these two features on the dummy receiver, thereby solving the gripstick mounting problem and the buttstock/receiver mating area problem.
Actually bending the dummy receiver is out of the question for obvious reasons, so I decided to simply add the upper and lower shapes to the dummy receiver. I cut a 10" X 1 3/8" piece of sheet steel for the bottom, and a 2 1/8" X 1 3/8" piece for the top, then used a vise to bend the edges down for the required profiles. Each piece is approx 1/16" too long, so that it can be trimmed flush with the back of the dummy receiver. I then transferred the necessary gripstick mounting cutout to the bottom piece, and cut it out with a Dremel tool.
As you can see from the photos, the additions will make the dummy receiver look a lot closer to the shape of the original, which is shown for comparison. The two additions have not yet been welded into place. I should probably note here that I've removed the buffer assembly from the buttstock to make more room inside the receiver for the propane components. I intend to weld two "ears" on the remaining metal frame of the buttstock. These ears will slide inside the two cavities created by installing the two pieces described above, and the buttstock will be secured by two round top (square drive) machine screws that will strongly resemble the rivets in the same spots on the real receiver.
As always, I hope the pictures are clearer than my narrative.
Actually bending the dummy receiver is out of the question for obvious reasons, so I decided to simply add the upper and lower shapes to the dummy receiver. I cut a 10" X 1 3/8" piece of sheet steel for the bottom, and a 2 1/8" X 1 3/8" piece for the top, then used a vise to bend the edges down for the required profiles. Each piece is approx 1/16" too long, so that it can be trimmed flush with the back of the dummy receiver. I then transferred the necessary gripstick mounting cutout to the bottom piece, and cut it out with a Dremel tool.
As you can see from the photos, the additions will make the dummy receiver look a lot closer to the shape of the original, which is shown for comparison. The two additions have not yet been welded into place. I should probably note here that I've removed the buffer assembly from the buttstock to make more room inside the receiver for the propane components. I intend to weld two "ears" on the remaining metal frame of the buttstock. These ears will slide inside the two cavities created by installing the two pieces described above, and the buttstock will be secured by two round top (square drive) machine screws that will strongly resemble the rivets in the same spots on the real receiver.
As always, I hope the pictures are clearer than my narrative.
You may want to pick up a lower-bracket for mounting that trigger-group from "Dan" at Angola Armory......I believe that he has them listed as for the M53....but basically the same bracket as on an MG42.
That....and then a "correct"/full-dimple-type Ratchet-Plate to weld on from Brian at BRP Corp.....I believe that he has those parts listed under the "sheet-metal" or in the Semi-MG42 Parts-Areas.
For the "engraving".....I believe that there is an "engraver" advertizing in out parts/accessories For-Sale Section of this Board..........maybe "he" can post a photo of some "MG42" and MG42 "codes"/"manufacturers" information and "dates" and serial-number work that he could do in this area (????????).
Did you get a chance to review the photos over on the Fallschirmjager web-pages out in Washington state (?)....under their "crew-served-weapons" page 2 (?)......they showed both a gas-gun MG42 and MG34 that they made up due to their state's Class III laws.
Regards, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
That....and then a "correct"/full-dimple-type Ratchet-Plate to weld on from Brian at BRP Corp.....I believe that he has those parts listed under the "sheet-metal" or in the Semi-MG42 Parts-Areas.
For the "engraving".....I believe that there is an "engraver" advertizing in out parts/accessories For-Sale Section of this Board..........maybe "he" can post a photo of some "MG42" and MG42 "codes"/"manufacturers" information and "dates" and serial-number work that he could do in this area (????????).
Did you get a chance to review the photos over on the Fallschirmjager web-pages out in Washington state (?)....under their "crew-served-weapons" page 2 (?)......they showed both a gas-gun MG42 and MG34 that they made up due to their state's Class III laws.
Regards, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
Hi Richard,
Yep, I saw the FJ web site and their MG34 an Mg42 propane builds. Thanks for the reference. For those interested in seeing their gas guns, here's the link:
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/fallschirmj ... ticle.html
I knew about the BRP ratchet plates, and that's likely the way I'll go. I didn't know that Dan offers the FCG brackets. I'll have to check them out for the gas guns and my SA42 build.
I've been keeping copies of every photo I find that documents the receiver engravings found on MG42s. And I have my own original MG42 receiver to reference. If I can't find somebody locally to do the engraving I'll be checking for other sources.
I think it will be the "small" details like the ratchet plate and the other items you've suggested that will give the "real weapon" impression that I'm seeking.
I'd like to call for ideas on another feature that I will be building into these propane guns: realistic (or near realistic) recoil and vibration. I've drawn up plans for two different methods for giving the propane guns a rocking motion and vibration when there is combustion in the expansion chamber. Both designs involve hinged, spring-loaded weights that will be thrown about by each "stroke" of combustion. (I've also tossed about one idea for "ejecting" shell casings--no bullets, of course--drawn from a belt or drum, but that idea is a LONG way off). Any alternative ideas for accomplishing some rocking and rolling when the propane goes off?
GeeDeeEmm
Yep, I saw the FJ web site and their MG34 an Mg42 propane builds. Thanks for the reference. For those interested in seeing their gas guns, here's the link:
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/fallschirmj ... ticle.html
I knew about the BRP ratchet plates, and that's likely the way I'll go. I didn't know that Dan offers the FCG brackets. I'll have to check them out for the gas guns and my SA42 build.
I've been keeping copies of every photo I find that documents the receiver engravings found on MG42s. And I have my own original MG42 receiver to reference. If I can't find somebody locally to do the engraving I'll be checking for other sources.
I think it will be the "small" details like the ratchet plate and the other items you've suggested that will give the "real weapon" impression that I'm seeking.
I'd like to call for ideas on another feature that I will be building into these propane guns: realistic (or near realistic) recoil and vibration. I've drawn up plans for two different methods for giving the propane guns a rocking motion and vibration when there is combustion in the expansion chamber. Both designs involve hinged, spring-loaded weights that will be thrown about by each "stroke" of combustion. (I've also tossed about one idea for "ejecting" shell casings--no bullets, of course--drawn from a belt or drum, but that idea is a LONG way off). Any alternative ideas for accomplishing some rocking and rolling when the propane goes off?
GeeDeeEmm
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88comm
- Stabshauptmann
- Posts: 177
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:31 pm
- Location: South Central Pennsylvania
Rather than a hinged weight, how about a steel piston in the back of a cylinderical chamber? A spring would push it forward, explosion would push it back. A port in the back of the chamber would bleed the gases at the end of the stroke. It would be much like a two stroke engine. Piston hitting bottom/back of the chamber would give the recoil. Heavier piston = more recoil. The exhaust port could actually be vented through a tube to the muzzle.
As a further design consideration, the piston might be set up to trip a micro-switch and in turn providing the spark. Rate of fire might (theoretically) be controlled exclusively by the gas charge pressure, or a restrictor valve on the exhaust tube.
Interesting exercise. We need more people building these things...
As a further design consideration, the piston might be set up to trip a micro-switch and in turn providing the spark. Rate of fire might (theoretically) be controlled exclusively by the gas charge pressure, or a restrictor valve on the exhaust tube.
Interesting exercise. We need more people building these things...
When you think about "things-moving" inside of a gas-gun......remember that the "wiring"..."spark-plug"..."coil"....and "spark-plug-wires" may not take a lot of repetative movements without failure.
I don't believe that you will be able to get shell-case-ejections due to requirements for shell-casings...and then belt-movement (?)......
.....the best you may be able to achieve (without a larger budget)....may be some belt-movement through a Piston on the side of your expansion-chamber hitting/pushing on a spring-loaded lever.....similar to the recoil-system in a "Colt-Potato-Digger" MG. Take a look at the lever on it......scale it down and mount it near the belt.
But........you may not be able to do this either as you may be building a portable MG42 Gas-Gun and have the electrics mounted in the assault-drum as the units out in Washington state. (IE: Back-packed-bottles...hoses...battery and electrics).
But if your gun will be mounted on a motorcycle....or semi-movable tripod .....this may still be an option.
My suggestion would be to first get it to look like an MG42.....and then just get it to run (make-correct-sounding-noise).
Keep us posted as this looks like a good project.
Regards, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
I don't believe that you will be able to get shell-case-ejections due to requirements for shell-casings...and then belt-movement (?)......
.....the best you may be able to achieve (without a larger budget)....may be some belt-movement through a Piston on the side of your expansion-chamber hitting/pushing on a spring-loaded lever.....similar to the recoil-system in a "Colt-Potato-Digger" MG. Take a look at the lever on it......scale it down and mount it near the belt.
But........you may not be able to do this either as you may be building a portable MG42 Gas-Gun and have the electrics mounted in the assault-drum as the units out in Washington state. (IE: Back-packed-bottles...hoses...battery and electrics).
But if your gun will be mounted on a motorcycle....or semi-movable tripod .....this may still be an option.
My suggestion would be to first get it to look like an MG42.....and then just get it to run (make-correct-sounding-noise).
Keep us posted as this looks like a good project.
Regards, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
Got the upper and lower "channels" welded to the tube yesterday, then spent hours grinding and shaping the welds to the profiles I wanted. I'm not totally satisfied with the results, but the process has my imagination working overtime on how to press the channels into the receiver rather than welding them on.
I had a spare gripstick mounting bracket so I tacked it on to the receiver. The gripstick slides into place without problem.
Once I had the receiver looking acceptable, I cut it to the appropriate length and tacked it into place on the barrel shroud. Once again, the fit is OK, but could be better. I've made note of a number of improvements that I will incorporate into the next fabrication.
(One thing I might note here: the sixteen guage sheet has become very rigid and strong as each step in its construction adds reenforcement. I've almost decided to use the sixteen guage metal from here on out, as its only real function on a propane gun is to tie the structure together and house the components that do the real work. The only component that will be under considerable stress is the combustion chamber. It will be manufactured separately from very hefty steel. )
As you can see from the overhead shots, the receiver has at least twice the room inside as a genuine receiver. Once the structures are removed from inside the barrel change door there will be a clear, unobstructed view from the buttstock to the muzzle cone. (Meant to take a photo of this but neglected to do so -- I'll try to post it next time.)
Next up: fabricating a quick-release for the buttstock, installing a ratchet plate, and replicating the rail rivet indentations (Which will be used as attachment points for the propane components); lots of filling, grinding, and cosmetic detailing.
I had a spare gripstick mounting bracket so I tacked it on to the receiver. The gripstick slides into place without problem.
Once I had the receiver looking acceptable, I cut it to the appropriate length and tacked it into place on the barrel shroud. Once again, the fit is OK, but could be better. I've made note of a number of improvements that I will incorporate into the next fabrication.
(One thing I might note here: the sixteen guage sheet has become very rigid and strong as each step in its construction adds reenforcement. I've almost decided to use the sixteen guage metal from here on out, as its only real function on a propane gun is to tie the structure together and house the components that do the real work. The only component that will be under considerable stress is the combustion chamber. It will be manufactured separately from very hefty steel. )
As you can see from the overhead shots, the receiver has at least twice the room inside as a genuine receiver. Once the structures are removed from inside the barrel change door there will be a clear, unobstructed view from the buttstock to the muzzle cone. (Meant to take a photo of this but neglected to do so -- I'll try to post it next time.)
Next up: fabricating a quick-release for the buttstock, installing a ratchet plate, and replicating the rail rivet indentations (Which will be used as attachment points for the propane components); lots of filling, grinding, and cosmetic detailing.
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Overall view. The buttstock is taped on for now. A LOT of work to go.
GeeDeeEmm
GeeDeeEmm
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- Propane Gun Build 020.jpg (194.03 KiB) Viewed 4434 times
Last edited by gdmoore28 on Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Village
gdmoore28,
I'm extremely psyched to see your progress on this project! I'm personally researching the feasability of creating a "shell" receiver to build an electric airsoft gun out of a Yugo MG53, so your work is a great inspiration. If you intend on selling the final receiver shell alone, let me know. My shop access is limited therefore an empty receiver would help me a ton in completing this project.
Keep up the good work!
I'm extremely psyched to see your progress on this project! I'm personally researching the feasability of creating a "shell" receiver to build an electric airsoft gun out of a Yugo MG53, so your work is a great inspiration. If you intend on selling the final receiver shell alone, let me know. My shop access is limited therefore an empty receiver would help me a ton in completing this project.
Keep up the good work!