Flash hider

[sscav]

I've got a question on the tightness of theflash hider. If I screw it down all the way, it's the width if the locking bar from locking in the slot. If I back it up to the previous slot, there's a lot of wobble. My question is should I tinker and file to get to go into the next slot, or is some wobble where it locks in OK?
Thanks for any help,
Brian

[weasel]

sscav,
I used a mill file to fit the booster so that it would lock down nice and tight. I don't know if that is necessary for it to fire correctly, for I have read that a fellow with a FA 42 would unscrew the booster a couple of notches for it operate well. You will only have a semi, make it tight.
LOL
Weasel

[TOM R]

mine functions with the "wobble" I think you want a little loose like that,
my thoughts are because heat will cause the metal to expand and it will self tighten,I'd imagine the full autos get pretty hot

i have seen boosters all messed up as guys tried usin a pin wrench to get it super tight or to the next lock slot

[narviklied]

From my firing of SA MG34's and MG42's I see no reason to over tighten the flash hider. Hand tighten, and the back it off to the last available notch. The barrel bearing is what keeps the barrel in the receiver, the flash hider just holds in the booster. The entire barrel bearing, booster, flash hider group gets very hot and very dirty, especially with wood tipped blank ammo. It WILL tighten from heat and get fouled up very quickly. If it is too tight, you will have a MF of a time removing to clean. I believe the german's made them with a notch and catch system so that they do not back off during firing, but can be removed frequently and be cleaned. The Browning 1919 series with their peened on locking washer are not readily disassembled and so never get the cleaning they need.

[JBaum]

According to the manuals, tighten the flash hider, then back it off until the detent catches the first slot. The wobble hurts nothing.