Who has the machined mg42 nose pieces for sale

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THE DOCTOR

Who has the machined mg42 nose pieces for sale

Post by THE DOCTOR »

I saw them a week ago to replace the front section where it is burned through the threads and now i can't find it

please help

Thanks

DOC
RaccoonRough

Post by RaccoonRough »

Doc,

I know there are guys in this forum who have had experience with this maker, but I have not. Everything I have read has been good.

I am sure you will get lots of feedback in no time, but as soon as I get my MG53 kits I was going to buy the one made by Wiselite Armory. Here is a link to APEX Gun parts where they are listed for sale. I know there is a rep. from Wiselite on this board from time to time and I am sure he can hook you up.

https://www.apexgunparts.com/product_in ... e889992b2b

Good Luck hope it helps

RR
Britcopinaz

Post by Britcopinaz »

Wise-lite arms makes them.
http://wlarms.com/

I think his retailer is APEX

https://www.apexgunparts.com/ :D
MGMike
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Post by MGMike »

Doc:

Here's how I did mine. From left to right:

Left; The shroud as it came (actually, the two others had more material left than this one). I will probably just grind the left one down, there's not enough material there to support a saw cut.

Center; I squared the shroud up as much as I could in my band saw, and trimmed it back to solid metal at the front edge of the crimp. Then, I tapped the remaining ring of the old bearing with a hammer and punch until it fell down into the shroud.

Right; I filed and ground the crimped edge back until it was flush with the inside of the metal. Then, the WiseLite bearing pushed in just fine.

There is a thread here, but I forgot to look it up first :oops: that has length dimensions for the shroud section. If you make the front of the bearing match them, it should be OK. As a check, the barrel bushing should stick out about 1/2" +0/- 1/32" when the barrel is installed and up against the stop shoulder inside the shroud.

MikeD
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THE DOCTOR

Thanks again your work looks great

Post by THE DOCTOR »

I really appreciate the fast response and good pics

good luck with your build

DOC
turbothis

Post by turbothis »

finding the missing barrel ends would be like finding a unicorn. or even gold nuggets on the street! scabs.......

i wish i could buy the bushing without the costly cuts inside of it. i would improvise something instead. if i had a lathe.......
Bil
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Post by Bil »

MGMIKE-Thank you for the mini-tutorial! The 3 receivers in one picture was a nice touck.I am putting this page aside for later.One question-If you mark the inside of the receiver at the rear-most point of the old bearing,and then put the new wise-lite bearing in till it touches that mark,is it at the proper position.In other words,are the fromt of the slots the same as the old ones in comparison with the rear of the bearing? Were all of the old ones the same as each other? That is more than one question-sorry :roll: . PS to THE DOCTOR.a small point-if you use the subject space every time instead of just when starting a post,part of your message is hard to see.I don't think anyone looks at the little writing up there.I almost missed one of your posts that way.If someone takes the time to post,I want to do the courtesy of reading it :D Thanks. ---bil
MGMike
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Post by MGMike »

Bil:

Thanks. I can give you one answer for the multiple questions...I ain't gotta' clue :)

I don't think it matters if the new bearings are the same length as the old ones. I do expect that the front end of the slot is pretty much in the same relation to the front of the threaded section as on the originals. The bushing lugs shouldn't touch the front ends of the slots, and there isn't enough barrel movement for the bushing to come out the rear end of the bearing, so the lugs don't use the whole length of the slots anyway. My bushing is about 1/4" back from "bottoming out" at the front of the slots.

Here's the address of the Sticky with the welding dimensions <http://panzer46.net/mg42board/viewtopic.php?t=2919>

After I took the photo, I adjusted the location of the bearing to match the 74mm dimension in the Sticky, and it made my bushing protrusion match the dimension that I was given of an un-cut MG 42. I personally think that how far the bushing sticks into the recoil nozzle is more important than the exact overall length of the reciever. Here's a photo of that:


MikeD
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Bil
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Post by Bil »

Thank you,Mike.In a world where you cant even walk into a McDonalds and get someone to understand how to make change or get an order straight,I am amazed how you can ask a question an machine gun repair to someone you don't know and have never seen,and get many people just waiting to help! Thank youall,guys. I didn't need that Big Mac anyways.... ---bil
Britcopinaz

Post by Britcopinaz »

Well if yer not eating it, can I have your fries as well bill?? :roll:
Bil
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Post by Bil »

In the mail-should be there by Tues.!! :roll: ---bil
wiselitearms

Post by wiselitearms »

Britcopinaz wrote:Wise-lite arms makes them.
http://wlarms.com/

I think his retailer is APEX

https://www.apexgunparts.com/ :D
THANKS for posting the links!
APEX has these in stock, ready to be purchased.

I certainly appreciate the time expended by the folks here who post images and type out instalation instructions.

WLA
wiselitearms

Post by wiselitearms »

Today I spoke to the good folks at APEX gun parts. They report that there are less than ten of the Yugo M53/MG42 barrel bushing repair sleeves left in stock:
https://www.apexgunparts.com/product_in ... cts_id/160

If you need one of these parts for a build you might want to secure yours now!
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tomcatshaas
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Post by tomcatshaas »

MGMike,

how are you going to close up the 1/4" gap between the end of rec. and shoulder of bearing so it looks more like the original.

perhaps cut a piece of tube same diam. and slip over the bearing to fill gap and weld seam.....or are you going to just weld the gap up?

Or of course, just leave the gap is another option.


TC
MGMike
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Post by MGMike »

TC:

I plan to fillet weld the bearing to the shroud, and then smooth off the weld to make a profile as much like the original as I can.

Here's a side view. I might stick the bearing in the lathe first, and round off the sharp corner too.

MikeD
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