Who has the machined mg42 nose pieces for sale
Who has the machined mg42 nose pieces for sale
I saw them a week ago to replace the front section where it is burned through the threads and now i can't find it
please help
Thanks
DOC
please help
Thanks
DOC
Doc,
I know there are guys in this forum who have had experience with this maker, but I have not. Everything I have read has been good.
I am sure you will get lots of feedback in no time, but as soon as I get my MG53 kits I was going to buy the one made by Wiselite Armory. Here is a link to APEX Gun parts where they are listed for sale. I know there is a rep. from Wiselite on this board from time to time and I am sure he can hook you up.
https://www.apexgunparts.com/product_in ... e889992b2b
Good Luck hope it helps
RR
I know there are guys in this forum who have had experience with this maker, but I have not. Everything I have read has been good.
I am sure you will get lots of feedback in no time, but as soon as I get my MG53 kits I was going to buy the one made by Wiselite Armory. Here is a link to APEX Gun parts where they are listed for sale. I know there is a rep. from Wiselite on this board from time to time and I am sure he can hook you up.
https://www.apexgunparts.com/product_in ... e889992b2b
Good Luck hope it helps
RR
Wise-lite arms makes them.
http://wlarms.com/
I think his retailer is APEX
https://www.apexgunparts.com/
http://wlarms.com/
I think his retailer is APEX
https://www.apexgunparts.com/

Doc:
Here's how I did mine. From left to right:
Left; The shroud as it came (actually, the two others had more material left than this one). I will probably just grind the left one down, there's not enough material there to support a saw cut.
Center; I squared the shroud up as much as I could in my band saw, and trimmed it back to solid metal at the front edge of the crimp. Then, I tapped the remaining ring of the old bearing with a hammer and punch until it fell down into the shroud.
Right; I filed and ground the crimped edge back until it was flush with the inside of the metal. Then, the WiseLite bearing pushed in just fine.
There is a thread here, but I forgot to look it up first
that has length dimensions for the shroud section. If you make the front of the bearing match them, it should be OK. As a check, the barrel bushing should stick out about 1/2" +0/- 1/32" when the barrel is installed and up against the stop shoulder inside the shroud.
MikeD
Here's how I did mine. From left to right:
Left; The shroud as it came (actually, the two others had more material left than this one). I will probably just grind the left one down, there's not enough material there to support a saw cut.
Center; I squared the shroud up as much as I could in my band saw, and trimmed it back to solid metal at the front edge of the crimp. Then, I tapped the remaining ring of the old bearing with a hammer and punch until it fell down into the shroud.
Right; I filed and ground the crimped edge back until it was flush with the inside of the metal. Then, the WiseLite bearing pushed in just fine.
There is a thread here, but I forgot to look it up first

MikeD
- Attachments
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- PICT0101.JPG (186.34 KiB) Viewed 1843 times
Thanks again your work looks great
I really appreciate the fast response and good pics
good luck with your build
DOC
good luck with your build
DOC
MGMIKE-Thank you for the mini-tutorial! The 3 receivers in one picture was a nice touck.I am putting this page aside for later.One question-If you mark the inside of the receiver at the rear-most point of the old bearing,and then put the new wise-lite bearing in till it touches that mark,is it at the proper position.In other words,are the fromt of the slots the same as the old ones in comparison with the rear of the bearing? Were all of the old ones the same as each other? That is more than one question-sorry
. PS to THE DOCTOR.a small point-if you use the subject space every time instead of just when starting a post,part of your message is hard to see.I don't think anyone looks at the little writing up there.I almost missed one of your posts that way.If someone takes the time to post,I want to do the courtesy of reading it
Thanks. ---bil


Bil:
Thanks. I can give you one answer for the multiple questions...I ain't gotta' clue
I don't think it matters if the new bearings are the same length as the old ones. I do expect that the front end of the slot is pretty much in the same relation to the front of the threaded section as on the originals. The bushing lugs shouldn't touch the front ends of the slots, and there isn't enough barrel movement for the bushing to come out the rear end of the bearing, so the lugs don't use the whole length of the slots anyway. My bushing is about 1/4" back from "bottoming out" at the front of the slots.
Here's the address of the Sticky with the welding dimensions <http://panzer46.net/mg42board/viewtopic.php?t=2919>
After I took the photo, I adjusted the location of the bearing to match the 74mm dimension in the Sticky, and it made my bushing protrusion match the dimension that I was given of an un-cut MG 42. I personally think that how far the bushing sticks into the recoil nozzle is more important than the exact overall length of the reciever. Here's a photo of that:
MikeD
Thanks. I can give you one answer for the multiple questions...I ain't gotta' clue

I don't think it matters if the new bearings are the same length as the old ones. I do expect that the front end of the slot is pretty much in the same relation to the front of the threaded section as on the originals. The bushing lugs shouldn't touch the front ends of the slots, and there isn't enough barrel movement for the bushing to come out the rear end of the bearing, so the lugs don't use the whole length of the slots anyway. My bushing is about 1/4" back from "bottoming out" at the front of the slots.
Here's the address of the Sticky with the welding dimensions <http://panzer46.net/mg42board/viewtopic.php?t=2919>
After I took the photo, I adjusted the location of the bearing to match the 74mm dimension in the Sticky, and it made my bushing protrusion match the dimension that I was given of an un-cut MG 42. I personally think that how far the bushing sticks into the recoil nozzle is more important than the exact overall length of the reciever. Here's a photo of that:
MikeD
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- Bearing protrusion.JPG (24.87 KiB) Viewed 1802 times
Thank you,Mike.In a world where you cant even walk into a McDonalds and get someone to understand how to make change or get an order straight,I am amazed how you can ask a question an machine gun repair to someone you don't know and have never seen,and get many people just waiting to help! Thank youall,guys. I didn't need that Big Mac anyways.... ---bil
THANKS for posting the links!Britcopinaz wrote:Wise-lite arms makes them.
http://wlarms.com/
I think his retailer is APEX
https://www.apexgunparts.com/
APEX has these in stock, ready to be purchased.
I certainly appreciate the time expended by the folks here who post images and type out instalation instructions.
WLA
Today I spoke to the good folks at APEX gun parts. They report that there are less than ten of the Yugo M53/MG42 barrel bushing repair sleeves left in stock:
https://www.apexgunparts.com/product_in ... cts_id/160
If you need one of these parts for a build you might want to secure yours now!
https://www.apexgunparts.com/product_in ... cts_id/160
If you need one of these parts for a build you might want to secure yours now!
- tomcatshaas
- General
- Posts: 1402
- Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:23 am
- Location: Minnesota
MGMike,
how are you going to close up the 1/4" gap between the end of rec. and shoulder of bearing so it looks more like the original.
perhaps cut a piece of tube same diam. and slip over the bearing to fill gap and weld seam.....or are you going to just weld the gap up?
Or of course, just leave the gap is another option.
TC
how are you going to close up the 1/4" gap between the end of rec. and shoulder of bearing so it looks more like the original.
perhaps cut a piece of tube same diam. and slip over the bearing to fill gap and weld seam.....or are you going to just weld the gap up?
Or of course, just leave the gap is another option.
TC