www.MG42.us

Can someone give me the run down on what it takes to swap between 8mm and 308 and vise versa? Correct me where I'm wrong.

Different feed tray, I believe 3 types, 8 mm, converted 8mm to 308, and the 308 with hanger tabs.

Two types of covers, 8mm, and the newer 308.

What about boosters?

I got 2 post-WW2 308 kits and will some day build semis with one in each caliber.
For the 8mm I believe I just need to knock out the feed tray spacer and maybe get a booster?
For 308, I'll be needing the newer tray and cover so I can hang a 50-rnd drum?

Non disentegrating links for 8mm and the older 308 trays, and typical m60 links for the newer tray?

Next, where the best place for parts?

thanks guys, there's got to be a smart guy out there somewhere.

You will need the following:
Feed tray for .308
Barrel
Connection lever for top cover.

The connection levers can be changed easily without buying a second top cover, the 8mm is shorter than the .308, but most guys buy a second cover anyway as they are selling at very reasonable prices.

The first .308 trays use the original belts, no problem loading the ammo, but there are different loaders, best to have both. The MG3 allowed the 60 links, but that is a different gun than a converted 8mm to .308, not all MG3 parts will interchange into a WWII gun.

All the WWII and post war booster cones have an exit diameter of 11.5 mm for both calibers, I am not sure if the MG3 is the same. Watch out for the 9.5mm cones, these are for the BFA. My BRP semi came with that size cone which resulted in bullet strikes and very forceful recoil before I swapped it out.

I stock all parts for the 42, email me for a price list, or check out my auction listings on Gunbroker.
FWIW,
Dan
Angola Armory LLC
716-549-2766, 10am-5pm EST

Dan,

Your reply is very interesting! Somewhere I think read that the MG1 was the original WWII MG42 converted to fire the .308 by only changing the Feed Tray and the Barrel. Did they change the Connecton Lever too in the early guns? IF so, what is the difference in length. Thanks for the help!

According to page 15 of the H.Dv. 216/6 manual, the recoil nozzle size for 8mm Mauser is 14mm, but the 11.5mm nozzle can be used to increase the rate of fire.

For 7.62 x 51mm (.308), only the 11mm nozzle is to be used.

I can't say that doing anything else will or won't work, or is or isn't dangerous.... I just translate the stuff, I don't write it.

I swap the entire top cover, feed tray, barrel, and change the nozzle, and .308 runs just fine. You may have trouble with 8mm belts if they're too tight. .308 ammo is a little fatter than 8mm, and 8mm belts are a little tight on it unless they're used somewhat. The book says to oil the insides of the belts before filling, but I've never done it and mine runs just fine. I've seen guys spray the whole belt with WD40 just before shooting, but if you've ever seen that crap thicken up when it dries, you wouldn't use it either.

John@GermanManuals.com

since i am in nazi jersey I will need to use m60 links, will these work on ww2 mg42 in 8mm? and if not why

The links would work for 8mm if they were tight enough...but you would need the feed pawls from the MG3. They're made for M60 links instead of the 50 round belts. The feed pawls are what pulls the belt across the feed tray.

I can't say I've ever tried what you're trying to do.... I have the required parts, though. Maybe this summer I'll give it a go and see what happens.

Would it be legal for you to have 10 round sections of belt, and just link them together like full sized belts to make the length you want? You'd use a lot of belts to get then ends you need for hooking the belts together, like taking 40 rounds out of an existing belt, then hook those sections together to make whatever length you want.

It's really not much different than doing it a link at a time like an M60 belt. That would keep the individual belts at 10 rounds, which I suppose is the New Jersey restriction

They make the rules, and if you can beat 'em using their rules, it's their trouble.

John@GermanManuals.com

can't link more than 15 rds , this is why I do not run cloth belts in my 1919a4, I will not buy belts to cut them up, pllus they don't ship to nj

The MG1 was new manufacture post war in caliber 8x57 not 7.62

well, considering how cheap MG42 belts are ($7 each), and how many times they can be used (like, forever), I didn't think cutting up belts was such a bad idea. And getting belts into NJ that were 15 rounds long would be simple.... I know lots of people with tin snips that would cut them up. Buying a bunch of starter tabs would cost as much as the belts ($7 each), so figure that 1 tab (3 links) with 12 links from the belt, makes it under $10 per belt of 15 links.

John@GermanManuals.com

ak47dennis,

Thanks for the information on the MG1 being post war manufacture. I thought the MG1 was the WWII 8mm guns converted to .308 and the MG3 being fully post war manufacture.

jbaum were do you find belts for $7?

50 round belts for the MG42...$7 MG34.com They have starter tabs for $7 too. They'll be at Knob Creek... I'll be at the next table towards the end of the row.

I think I've seen them for $6, but I don't have a clue where that was anymore. I have many more than I'll ever need, so I don't shop to buy, just to see what's out there.

John@GermanManuals.com

SARCO has a sale on the belts. They are $7.00 when you buy 10. Less number is about $1.00 higher. If you buy belts, they have a price of $6.00 for starter tabs. I saw this in the lastest issue of SHotgun News.

The only thing I wonder is if they are WWII German or the post war Yugo belts. You may want to give them a call and check out if they are German or not. The price is right.

is there an appearance or function difference in ww2, yugo, post war belts?

Tom R,

I am not sure of the dimensional data difference, but usually the holes are different size, and the dimples are different, if any at all. The Yugo belts should work fine in any MG42.

Oh yea, I have been told that the material thickness is different than the German belts; thinner material. I have some of the Yugo belts and they run fine. I just like to use the German Belts??????

Is it possible to join 2 belts together?

Jason yes they can be joined, there is a tab that slips onto the opening on the end of the belt berfore it.

Joining the belts is what I suggested a few posts ago. Set up several 15 round belts, then link them together to make one as long as you want (provided that doing so is politically correct in your state).

I've used several different types / dates / manuafacturers / countries belts through my MG42... they all run just fine. A little case lube on the shells when reloading helps, and it sure makes them slide into the belts easier.

Hey Abwehr - I finally got a real MG3 current manual out of Germany. It's 166 pages and I'll be translating it this summer. It even tells how much to lead in for shooting at - oh, uh, well, the boogey man may see this and crap himself, so lets just say there's a LOT of stuff in it that isn't in any other manual I've seen. How to use the ruptured case extractor, the belt loader, etc.... I hope to start on it by June. I still have 2 other manuals to knock off before I start on it.

I'll be at Knob Creek Friday and Saturday selling manuals - I don't remember the table number, but it's next to MG34.Com, about 2/3 of the way back, on the right end.

John@GermanManuals.com

John,

Thanks for the update on the MG3 manual. Please put me down for one when you get it translated. I want one!!!!

used belts at DSA 5.00