New TNW SA 34

[mp5]

Just picked up my TNW 34 and noticed two things.
First the grip/FCG has about 1/16 inch lateral wobble.
Second, the gun won't dry fire; I pull the cocking handle all the way back, then release it, make sure the little safety lever on the left side is down, and nothing happens.
I am hampered by not having an English manual, so my procedure may be wrong, but the grip wobble is unexpected. Has anybody had similar problems?

Jorge

[Pirate]

Ah, so you finally got it!!, my grip wobbles too. does the gun cock when you retract the feed handle? The trigger is really hard to pull

[mp5]

Ah, so you finally got it!!, my grip wobbles too. does the gun cock when you retract the feed handle? The trigger is really hard to pull

Unable to so far!
What is a good time to call you tomorrow?

Jorge

[762x51]

....the grip/FCG has about 1/16 inch lateral wobble.....
Jorge

This is probably because the TNW receivers gripstick mounting holes are 0.358" dia. while a "real" MG34's are 0.350" (8.9mm).
Without question, the 0.008" oversized mounting holes will cause the side to side wobble.

I suspect that TNW used a letter size "T" drill (0.358") instead of obtaining the proper metric sized drill - For example part number 3069A72 from McMaster-Carr.

Regards,
Orin

[mp5]

....the grip/FCG has about 1/16 inch lateral wobble.....
Jorge

This is probably because the TNW receivers gripstick mounting holes are 0.358" dia. while a "real" MG34's are 0.350" (8.9mm).
Without question, the 0.008" oversized mounting holes will cause the side to side wobble.

I suspect that TNW used a letter size "T" drill (0.358") instead of obtaining the proper metric sized drill - For example part number 3069A72 from McMaster-Carr.

Regards,
Orin

The wobble is only side to side not up and down, which makes me think the problem is not just the hole size.

[762x51]

The wobble is only side to side not up and down, which makes me think the problem is not just the hole size.

Yes, with an oversized hole you will notice only a little up and down movement - 1/2 of the oversize amount.
You will notice a larger "wobble" because the pin will "rock" the full oversize amount.

Orin

[mp5]

The wobble is only side to side not up and down, which makes me think the problem is not just the hole size.

Yes, with an oversized hole you will notice only a little up and down movement - 1/2 of the oversize amount.
You will notice a larger "wobble" because the pin will "rock" the full oversize amount.

Orin

I did not expect this wobble from a TNW product. Perhaps a semicircular shim can be fashioned out of thin brass to make up the difference. It is quite unnerving to feel this wobble, and I can't help but wonder what effect it has on the fire control group, or on the hammer hiting the firing pin.
Even more unsettling is that I can't get the hammer to cock; I read the US Army manual this AM, and even following their procedure I can't dry fire this thing. And I don't think it is the famous TNW heavy trigger!
While I have your attention Orin, do you know anyone who restores 34 lafettes? I just got a 1939 lafette which was recently liberated by AF Budge/Ryton Arms from a warehouse in Stalingrad, and is in excellent shape, but I have reason to believe it was refinished by the russkies. It is green gray, but is in excellent shape.

Thanks for your comments,

Jorge

[762x51]

Jorge,

I have a lafette 34 that I got from Tony, part of the same lot yours came from, and they are very nice.
I think that you'll find the original paint below that awful green paint on yours.

Ryan Schnee used to restore Lafettes and here is his profile so you can contact him:

http://panzer46.net/mg42board/profile.p ... file&u=254

Regards,
Orin

[haseo8up]

mp5

After reading your post, I had to check mine also. I have the same play, not real bad but it is there. I have not checked to see where at though. I like the brass shim idea. Sucks you cant dry fire!

[Intruder196]

I did not expect this wobble from a TNW product. Perhaps a semicircular shim can be fashioned out of thin brass to make up the difference. It is quite unnerving to feel this wobble, and I can't help but wonder what effect it has on the fire control group, or on the hammer hiting the firing pin.
Even more unsettling is that I can't get the hammer to cock; I read the US Army manual this AM, and even following their procedure I can't dry fire this thing. And I don't think it is the famous TNW heavy trigger!
While I have your attention Orin, do you know anyone who restores 34 lafettes? I just got a 1939 lafette which was recently liberated by AF Budge/Ryton Arms from a warehouse in Stalingrad, and is in excellent shape, but I have reason to believe it was refinished by the russkies. It is green gray, but is in excellent shape.

Thanks for your comments,

Jorge

Jorge, the TNW 34 does not have a hammer. The firing pin is recocked by the bolt itself when the bolt is pulled rearward. If you can remove your bolt, it will be in the cocked state. The grip stick has a special disconnector that pushes upwards and trips the TNW-made sear when pulling the trigger.

The safety needs to be rotated as far forward as it will go. If yours is still pointing straight down then the safety is probably still engaged.
My grip wobbles too, but not enough for it to be a bother to me.

[mp5]

Jorge, the TNW 34 does not have a hammer. The firing pin is recocked by the bolt itself when the bolt is pulled rearward. If you can remove your bolt, it will be in the cocked state. The grip stick has a special disconnector that pushes upwards and trips the TNW-made sear when pulling the trigger.

The safety needs to be rotated as far forward as it will go. If yours is still pointing straight down then the safety is probably still engaged.
My grip wobbles too, but not enough for it to be a bother to me.[/quote]

Well after talking to TNW today, I got home and tried to open the barrel sleeve to flip the barrel 180 degrees. Couldn't do it, but afterwards for some reason I could dry fire. Go figure!
This old MG is tighter than a lot of new stuff. Gotta get that shim for the receiver holes soon.

Jorge

[Intruder196]

It should open up if you're sure the bolt is back and not engaged with the barrel extension. The best way to do this without completly field stripping the weapon is to pull the bolt handle all the way to the rear, rotate the safety lever to the rear, ease the bolt forward till it stops on the safety, (this will be about halfway) then depress the release catch for the barrel jacket and rotate the receiver counter clockwise. The barrel will then slide right out.

If you are still having troubles dry firing and you are sure the safety is off. Lift the feed cover and look to see if the bolt is in full battery. There should be no more than a 1/8 gap between the back edge of the feed tray and the feed lever guides on the top of the bolt. It must be in full battery or it wont fire.

The bolt could be real tight and it should be thoroughly lubed. Also be sure to not "ride" the bolt handle when cocking the gun. It works best when you pull it to the rear and let it go.