Is any one making/selling replacement ejector rods for the MG34?
I have a number of bolts that would be good bolts but have battered ejector rods.
I talked to Brian at BRP last week and he said you could modify the rods that TNW makes for thier semi bolt. I checked thier website but did not see them listed.
Some one could make blank rods the correct length that could then be fitted by the user. The trick would be to use an alloy somewhat softer than that of the ejector plate since the rods are much easier to replace than the ejector plate.......
Seems a shame to strip an otherwise good bolt for parts when all it needs is an ejetor rod.
MG34 Ejector Rods
ejector rods
AA used to have new german ones
When you talk about "new" ejector-rods for the MG34 Bolt, remember three things:
1: They are made long and need to be fitted to an individual MG34.
2: When replaced......replace the rivet-pin that holds it in the MG34 Bolt.
3: With such a high-wear part(s) prone to wear and breakage.........why can't someone on this board (that owns a CNC lathe run off a couple hundred of these to sell as sets to us as a group-buy. They can be made from normal drill-rod looks like. Just barrow an unused WWII set that has not been installed yet as a guide.
(Note: Two short "Pins" shouldn't cost us more than $5 to $10 a set.......but watch the guy making them says "Oh, but I gota" charge $15 or $20 a set 'cause the little buggers are hard for me to find drill-rod that size".......yea ??
Be safe, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
1: They are made long and need to be fitted to an individual MG34.
2: When replaced......replace the rivet-pin that holds it in the MG34 Bolt.
3: With such a high-wear part(s) prone to wear and breakage.........why can't someone on this board (that owns a CNC lathe run off a couple hundred of these to sell as sets to us as a group-buy. They can be made from normal drill-rod looks like. Just barrow an unused WWII set that has not been installed yet as a guide.
(Note: Two short "Pins" shouldn't cost us more than $5 to $10 a set.......but watch the guy making them says "Oh, but I gota" charge $15 or $20 a set 'cause the little buggers are hard for me to find drill-rod that size".......yea ??
Be safe, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
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- Stabsunteroffizier
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 7:55 pm
Blanksguy, that's my point. They wear out and look pretty simple...
One thing I have never found is the procedure for actually fitting the rod to the gun. I understand you have to stone the bevel on the end that engages the ejector plate but how do you decide when you've got it right?
These are the things wich trouble my sleep.
One thing I have never found is the procedure for actually fitting the rod to the gun. I understand you have to stone the bevel on the end that engages the ejector plate but how do you decide when you've got it right?
These are the things wich trouble my sleep.

rods
when its right the bolt will slide past the plate with no drag
when you test it be sure that the pin is all they out
if it wount go just remove bolt and touch the edge to a bench grinder keeping the same angle and recheck
just a little at a time till it goes by if you releace the fp tenson so the bolt dosent bind goes real fast
push pin out hold gun down and drop the bolt should go right home
when you test it be sure that the pin is all they out
if it wount go just remove bolt and touch the edge to a bench grinder keeping the same angle and recheck
just a little at a time till it goes by if you releace the fp tenson so the bolt dosent bind goes real fast
push pin out hold gun down and drop the bolt should go right home
Just as Gordie K said......
You fit/stone the rear-tip of the ejector-rod on the bolt-assembly until it will just clears the ejector-plate inside the receiver (With the ejector-rod pushed forward). The ejector-rod is held in the bolt-assemblt by a pin/rivet that you expand the head on to retain it....as the ejector-rod fits into the bolt-assebly at an angle....you have to "fit" these by grind/stone until the rear-tip of the ejector-rod just clears the ejector-plate when you insert the MG34 bolt from the rear...and remember to push the ejector-rod forward prior to inserting the bolt-assembly into the receiver.
Be safe, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
You fit/stone the rear-tip of the ejector-rod on the bolt-assembly until it will just clears the ejector-plate inside the receiver (With the ejector-rod pushed forward). The ejector-rod is held in the bolt-assemblt by a pin/rivet that you expand the head on to retain it....as the ejector-rod fits into the bolt-assebly at an angle....you have to "fit" these by grind/stone until the rear-tip of the ejector-rod just clears the ejector-plate when you insert the MG34 bolt from the rear...and remember to push the ejector-rod forward prior to inserting the bolt-assembly into the receiver.
Be safe, RichardS.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net