www.MG42.us

My two questions are as follows.

1) during the later years of the war did the Germans make the booster cone and flash hider all one solid piece? Reason I'm asking is because that how mine appears and I've tried a lot to get it out and it won't budge. Picture to follow.

2) I was at the range yesterday and my 34 was running smoothly and we had a hiccup. When I pulled the trigger nothing would happen, so investigating what could be the reason I found out that the firing pin release lever had broke. Now on Gun broker I've found some for $8-20 range. But a lot of them are original and they seem like they are about to go soon. I'm curious to know if anyone on this forum makes some of their own pieces or just come across them at sarco, TNA, mg34 and or gun broker. Any help would be appreciated.

Are you talking about an MG34 or MG42 booster? I don't know of any one piece boosters for either during the war but there is a one piece (2 if you count the barrel bearing) on the 42/MG3 done in the 50's/60's.
Is your 34 a machinegun or is it a semi? It makes it easier to help if we know.

Frank

I apologize for the lack of information on my part. But I own a semi auto mg34 built by project guns and yes I was referring to the booster cone and flash hider. I tried to upload a picture via mobile but it appears this forum won't allow it to upload.

Regards,

Rupp

I dont beleive they were ever one solid piece - this happened to my mg34 muzzle booster and cone assembly, the booster would not budge or slide out of the cone assembly, i used the handle end of a small screwdriver and hammered it free so it didnt damage the booster, it seemed as though it had siezed with age.

http://tnwfirearms.com/ Cbass, sounds like you need the "TNW-type" firing pin release that is used in the semi-auto conversions. You can get it from the TNW parts dept. in Oregon. The "firing pin release" sold by Sarco, Numrich and others is the WW2 full-auto release from the bolt head that is removed from the bolt when it's converted. The slot in the bolt is welded-over to prevent re-conversion. If you actually need a full-auto FPR lever, TNW should have mountains of them that they took out of bolts. Good luck...Phil

Sorry folks for the delay been extremely busy.

@ Phil_ UK

I tried that previously and the outcome was a bent screwdriver. My fear is damaging the weapon and having to buy new parts on a alreay expensive market. I also attempted to lube it and hammer it aswell with no success.

@ anjongnis

Thanks, GB had some but they looked very weak. I'll definantly give TNW a look

Just got back to a computer so I can now upload pics!

It is in tight probably fused together over the long years

Safe to assume that the top is for a full auto and not semi? Why is the hole size larger though?

wont fit properly due to larger hole, pin just slips through.

Looks like you need a semi-auto f/p release from TNW. The full-auto piece is not remotely related but, since you don't need it, I'll take it....best of luck...Phil

Anjogni,

I ordered the part from tnw so when I get home tonight I will try it out. If you want the FA FP release PM me and I'm sure we can work something out.

Cbass59

I would suggest soaking the stuck flash hider/nozzle in diesel fuel for a week and trying to drive the nozzle out with a wooden dowel rod and mallet. Let soak and repeat until it comes out. Sooner or later you're going to need to clean it anyway. You might also try heating it in an oven, or carefully with a torch. It can always be reblued.

Believe it or not but automatic transmission fluid (cherry juice) mixed with diesel will work wonders on loosing up stuck together parts. Harry

@ Jbaum & messerschmittfann

Thanks for the advice I'll have to try that aswell. Ill let you know how that goes

Sebastian 'Cbass' Rupp