Blank-Adapting the MG34.
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
I bought one of the non-hand select blank barrels from IMA, and I got a German WWII proofed 2-piece barrel, converted from an 08 Maxim barrel, with the aluminum paint still on the barrel. Looks good, haven't tried it yet. They said they had some Yugo ones, dunno what those look like, but they're probably the same, just without proofs. Mines clearly German WWII production.
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reb62
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
I purchased the non-hand select blank barrel and will post detailed pics when it comes in.
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
TC,
Where do I send you the "Photos" that you requested about the MG34 Blank-Adapting barrels and parts (?).....as the current Board set up will not allow me to post the photos.
When buying a 2-pcs. Blank-Barrel....."INSURE" that the front-section has the "flair" at the rear to keep it from moving forward during firing and "beating" the Flash-Hider.
Also not that with the correct 2-pcs. Blank-Barrel w/restriction at the muzzle (allen-set-screw drilled out for correct operating-pressure), you do not need the Booster-cup/"Nozzle" under the flash-hider.
Something to think about when companies sell WWII German marked 2-pcs. barrels......"As live barrels were also WWII German marked.........Are these WWII German marked 2-pcs. Blank-Barrels made back during WWII (?)....or were they recently made up using shot-out WWII German-marked Barrels (?)".
Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
Where do I send you the "Photos" that you requested about the MG34 Blank-Adapting barrels and parts (?).....as the current Board set up will not allow me to post the photos.
When buying a 2-pcs. Blank-Barrel....."INSURE" that the front-section has the "flair" at the rear to keep it from moving forward during firing and "beating" the Flash-Hider.
Also not that with the correct 2-pcs. Blank-Barrel w/restriction at the muzzle (allen-set-screw drilled out for correct operating-pressure), you do not need the Booster-cup/"Nozzle" under the flash-hider.
Something to think about when companies sell WWII German marked 2-pcs. barrels......"As live barrels were also WWII German marked.........Are these WWII German marked 2-pcs. Blank-Barrels made back during WWII (?)....or were they recently made up using shot-out WWII German-marked Barrels (?)".
Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
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tomcatshaas
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Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
Looking forward to the pictures. I hope Blanksguy will be able to make a determination if they will work, or not.reb62 wrote:I purchased the non-hand select blank barrel and will post detailed pics when it comes in.
TC
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
I thought of whether or not my blank barrel is all WWII German or not, and really checked it out hard for waffenampts. There's waffenampts on the barrel extension/insert, and it does have the contour on the back that would keep it from going forward. It's marked on that with a "P" just like German blank firing barrels are supposed to be marked, for "Platzpatronen" or Blanks. Regular barrels are of course marked with an "S" for ball ammo.
In comparing the barrel to my maxim barrels, it's obviously the center section of the barrel, quite a lot of the rear of the barrel was cut away or eliminated during the conversion. It's contour and finish are exactly the same as my Imperial late WWI maxim barrels. It's got the crosshatched area on the barrel with the alumimum paint on that area, just as described in Folke's book, and the front has something very similar, and probably made from, and 08/15 collar for the front of the barrel. No waffenampts are on the old maxim barrel or the muzzle collar. There is still rifling in the barrel, as Folke mentions being common. No rust.
I believe this to be a good example of the waffenmeister type made up blank barrels, as described in Folke's book; Next question, will this work with blanks, I'll have to find out when I get my 34!
Glen
In comparing the barrel to my maxim barrels, it's obviously the center section of the barrel, quite a lot of the rear of the barrel was cut away or eliminated during the conversion. It's contour and finish are exactly the same as my Imperial late WWI maxim barrels. It's got the crosshatched area on the barrel with the alumimum paint on that area, just as described in Folke's book, and the front has something very similar, and probably made from, and 08/15 collar for the front of the barrel. No waffenampts are on the old maxim barrel or the muzzle collar. There is still rifling in the barrel, as Folke mentions being common. No rust.
I believe this to be a good example of the waffenmeister type made up blank barrels, as described in Folke's book; Next question, will this work with blanks, I'll have to find out when I get my 34!
Glen
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tomcatshaas
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- Location: Minnesota
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
Did you get your barrel from IMA or IO inc.? I don't see any blank barrels on IMA's web site. I just want to clarify which blank barrel supplier we are talking about.dwmmg08 wrote:I bought one of the non-hand select blank barrels from IMA, and I got a German WWII proofed 2-piece barrel, converted from an 08 Maxim barrel, with the aluminum paint still on the barrel. Looks good, haven't tried it yet. They said they had some Yugo ones, dunno what those look like, but they're probably the same, just without proofs. Mines clearly German WWII production.
TC
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
Sorry, IO... I got it from IO
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MG34Biker
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
Richard,
Since you are no longer mass-producing blanks, would you mind helping us out with a good load for use with the CH4D crimp die?
Since you are no longer mass-producing blanks, would you mind helping us out with a good load for use with the CH4D crimp die?
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
MG34biker.....(?)
I went over to your "profile" and didn't see anything.....(?).....and only 4-posts. Tell us a litle more about yourself.
I am still making "Blanks"....although not as much "mass-production" as in the past.
Biggest thing that we are working on now is "Standarization of BFA Hole-Size/Restriction"......once "standard BFA Hole-Sizes" have been accepted by the major-reenacting-units within the USA.......anyone can make Blanks using that "standard" as a guide.
If I were to send out a "loading" now........and the powder was not available (or the person making the Blanks changed to a different powder) then the BFA Hole-Size would change........
The way we want to do it is to have a standard BFA Hole-Size/Restriction....then all a person would have to do is to make his/her Blanks to operate the weapon at that BFA Hole-Size. This will give all reenactors a safe starting point and less possibility of a safety problem of over-pressure.
What we are trying to keep from happening is 50-different "loadings" out there without any standards for "pressure" to operate the weapon.
I hope that you can understand the method we are trying to use.
Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
I went over to your "profile" and didn't see anything.....(?).....and only 4-posts. Tell us a litle more about yourself.
I am still making "Blanks"....although not as much "mass-production" as in the past.
Biggest thing that we are working on now is "Standarization of BFA Hole-Size/Restriction"......once "standard BFA Hole-Sizes" have been accepted by the major-reenacting-units within the USA.......anyone can make Blanks using that "standard" as a guide.
If I were to send out a "loading" now........and the powder was not available (or the person making the Blanks changed to a different powder) then the BFA Hole-Size would change........
The way we want to do it is to have a standard BFA Hole-Size/Restriction....then all a person would have to do is to make his/her Blanks to operate the weapon at that BFA Hole-Size. This will give all reenactors a safe starting point and less possibility of a safety problem of over-pressure.
What we are trying to keep from happening is 50-different "loadings" out there without any standards for "pressure" to operate the weapon.
I hope that you can understand the method we are trying to use.
Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
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RaccoonRough
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
I am beginning to understand the more I read as well.
Where can one get a set of crimping dies to make 8MM blanks? I do reload but mostly Cowboy type ammo (Pistol Cart.) I have yet to reload a shouldered Rifle cart. I do have a set of 8mm dies.
I would love to make my own crimped blanks so as to feed my MG with a never changing supply of ammo. But this is your business and I can see why that would be "kept" info.
Could you PM me some info on where to get a crimping die and what I need?
Thanks
RR
Where can one get a set of crimping dies to make 8MM blanks? I do reload but mostly Cowboy type ammo (Pistol Cart.) I have yet to reload a shouldered Rifle cart. I do have a set of 8mm dies.
I would love to make my own crimped blanks so as to feed my MG with a never changing supply of ammo. But this is your business and I can see why that would be "kept" info.
Could you PM me some info on where to get a crimping die and what I need?
Thanks
RR
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tomcatshaas
- General
- Posts: 1402
- Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:23 am
- Location: Minnesota
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
check out this post viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6284RaccoonRough wrote:I am beginning to understand the more I read as well.
Where can one get a set of crimping dies to make 8MM blanks? I do reload but mostly Cowboy type ammo (Pistol Cart.) I have yet to reload a shouldered Rifle cart. I do have a set of 8mm dies.
I would love to make my own crimped blanks so as to feed my MG with a never changing supply of ammo. But this is your business and I can see why that would be "kept" info.
Could you PM me some info on where to get a crimping die and what I need?
Thanks
RR
TC
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MG34Biker
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
www.CH4D.com has crimp dies for most calibers in demand, whether for Cowboy Action, Horrywood, or WWII Reenacting.
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reb62
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
OK, here's an update from my lastpost.
I mentioned that I bought a 2 piece blank barrel from IOINC, it came in and I also studied what Blanksguy did for his blank feed tray. So here's where I sit with my set up. I just got back from a 3 day tactical reenactment as a Fallschirmjager with my MG34 in Oregon.
1. Used the original German 2 piece blank barrel from IOINC, non-hand select with no other restriction added, barrel as is firing Swanson's blanks.
2. Hand machined up what I thought would be a good blank feed tray adapter (thank you Blanksguy ) and I must say it ROCKED! with the only problem incountered was over heating the dern thing after about 600 rounds. You'll notice instead of tigging the adapter on, I decided to screw it on for the purpose of trial & error and so far I have not had to do anything to it yet.
I'm redy for he next battle.
I mentioned that I bought a 2 piece blank barrel from IOINC, it came in and I also studied what Blanksguy did for his blank feed tray. So here's where I sit with my set up. I just got back from a 3 day tactical reenactment as a Fallschirmjager with my MG34 in Oregon.
1. Used the original German 2 piece blank barrel from IOINC, non-hand select with no other restriction added, barrel as is firing Swanson's blanks.
2. Hand machined up what I thought would be a good blank feed tray adapter (thank you Blanksguy
) and I must say it ROCKED! with the only problem incountered was over heating the dern thing after about 600 rounds. You'll notice instead of tigging the adapter on, I decided to screw it on for the purpose of trial & error and so far I have not had to do anything to it yet.I'm redy for he next battle.
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tomcatshaas
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Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
reb62,
so the blank barrel from IOinc has a restrictor in the end of the barrel?
Blanksguy, can you see in the picture reb posted, if it has the correct profile or flange you speak of in the rear barrel area?
TC
so the blank barrel from IOinc has a restrictor in the end of the barrel?
Blanksguy, can you see in the picture reb posted, if it has the correct profile or flange you speak of in the rear barrel area?
TC
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
Looks good! Glad to hear it worked so nicely. ---bil
"I dream of a world where I can buy alcohol,tobacco and firearms from the same drive-up window,and use them all on the way home from work!" Dogbert
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
They look okay......my only complaint would be for the additional contours that were cut.
As for the "flange".....
It is the "flair" at the end towards the chamber that keeps the "Blank-Barrel" forward-half from moving forward.
As long as there is a restriction (of the correct-diameter vs. the Blanks-used) in the muzzle end of the barrel....the system will work.
Good job on the feed-tray-spacer........these keep the shorter blanks from raising up at the front during feeding. If they raise up....they stop/jam against the front/top of the feed-opening on the feed-tray.
Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
As for the "flange".....
It is the "flair" at the end towards the chamber that keeps the "Blank-Barrel" forward-half from moving forward.
As long as there is a restriction (of the correct-diameter vs. the Blanks-used) in the muzzle end of the barrel....the system will work.
Good job on the feed-tray-spacer........these keep the shorter blanks from raising up at the front during feeding. If they raise up....they stop/jam against the front/top of the feed-opening on the feed-tray.
Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
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reb62
Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
Tom,
No, there is no added restricter in the end of the barrel. Here are some more detailed photos for your review and thank you Blanksguy for all of your input in this subject.
No, there is no added restricter in the end of the barrel. Here are some more detailed photos for your review and thank you Blanksguy for all of your input in this subject.
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Re: Blank-Adapting the MG34.
reb62,
Now that I can see your barrel-assembly taken apart....I can see the "over-engineering"/machining that was done to make it.....most not required if you look at the photos of the 2-pcs. Blank-Barrel-Assembly that I had made. With yours....what was done was to machine an extra front and rear/piston for the barrel so that they did not have to use a second MG34 barrel (due to length vs. the rear-section w/chamber.).
To keep from burning up the barrel-assembly (excess-heat).......and use less powder in your Blanks.....I would recommend that you take that forward most "piston"......and drill/tap it for 1/2"x20TPI Allen-set-screws which you can drill out to different size restrictions. You will also be able to use the cheaper 7.62x51mmNATO Blanks "if" you make up a second rear-section w/barrel-extension with the same size-makeup as the one that you have now....only in .308 caliber.
NOTE: If you have someone else make it for you...."insure" that they have the same front-to-rear-length from end of barrel-extension to "flat" at rear of long-piston. If not, you risk the possibility of the assembly "growing" during heat and dirt buildup that will not allow you to rotate your barrel-jacket (at receiver) to remove blank-barrel.
The only other thing that I would do is to either "stake" the three-sections that make up the forward half of your Blank-barrel.......or cross-drill-"offset" for some type of set-screw or pin to keep the assemblies from backing out on each other. "Lock-tite" I don't believe will hold at those temps that I know of.......but I may be wrong. I have to use "green" Lock-tite to keep Harley-Davidson lower-ends together after balancing and truing due to heat and torque.
Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net
Now that I can see your barrel-assembly taken apart....I can see the "over-engineering"/machining that was done to make it.....most not required if you look at the photos of the 2-pcs. Blank-Barrel-Assembly that I had made. With yours....what was done was to machine an extra front and rear/piston for the barrel so that they did not have to use a second MG34 barrel (due to length vs. the rear-section w/chamber.).
To keep from burning up the barrel-assembly (excess-heat).......and use less powder in your Blanks.....I would recommend that you take that forward most "piston"......and drill/tap it for 1/2"x20TPI Allen-set-screws which you can drill out to different size restrictions. You will also be able to use the cheaper 7.62x51mmNATO Blanks "if" you make up a second rear-section w/barrel-extension with the same size-makeup as the one that you have now....only in .308 caliber.
NOTE: If you have someone else make it for you...."insure" that they have the same front-to-rear-length from end of barrel-extension to "flat" at rear of long-piston. If not, you risk the possibility of the assembly "growing" during heat and dirt buildup that will not allow you to rotate your barrel-jacket (at receiver) to remove blank-barrel.
The only other thing that I would do is to either "stake" the three-sections that make up the forward half of your Blank-barrel.......or cross-drill-"offset" for some type of set-screw or pin to keep the assemblies from backing out on each other. "Lock-tite" I don't believe will hold at those temps that I know of.......but I may be wrong. I have to use "green" Lock-tite to keep Harley-Davidson lower-ends together after balancing and truing due to heat and torque.
Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net