Break-Free Waterproofing?

[Franz20]

I don't know where to properly put this but I'm curious, what does everyone use for "waterproofing/snowproofing" your MG's? I was contemplating using Break-Free lubricant preservative. Has anyone tried or use this stuff?

Frank

[JBaum]

I don't use anything on mine. If it's snowing/raining, I don't take a gun outside.

A quick wipe of an oily rag would do everything that's needed.

[shred]

A hose-down with silicone spray works for short periods of exposure (eg: a few hours in an outdoor display or misty day at the range) but leaves it very shiny. Boeshield for somewhat longer-term (eg: few days outside in a display or months plus indoors). It leaves a waxy film that should not be used inside moving parts or the barrel unless removed before use.

[42rocker]

This is one of the reasons that "when" I finally get around to finishing my MG42. The finish is what I'm down to. I'm going to first park it then dura coat it in a dark blue finish. After that I'm thinking that it will hold up to about anything. That said I believe in what John said -- Raining -- I'm going to try not to let it get wet.

Later 42rocker

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I use my machineguns in the rain infrequently, usually at reenactments with blanks. As long as you don't leave it wet for 24 hours, and get it dry, cleaned and oiled after use, you don't see much rusting. Oh yeah.. don't leave your MP-40 magazines in their canvas pouches overnight after a moist day. that's FATAL to the finish and they rust fast. Clean everything INSIDE as well as outside and make sure all metal is oiled well before storage. These guns won't last forever, but a good effort made to preserve them sure makes it close.

[Bullwinkle]

I have used the Break Free "Collector" preservative for long term storage and it works GREAT. Very viscous. It really clings to the metal almost like a light grade GEL. That being said it would SUCK if it got sand /dirt mixed in it. Probably set up like Roman concrete!!! Regular break free works very well for daily usage. NOTHING will water "proof" a gun totally. Water will seep into EVERY crack and space and screw thread.....it will collect and hold between metal parts like the rails and receiver walls, under the cam piece, sight base, top cover and internal grip area. Just give it a good wipe down before going out with your normal oil, then IF it gets wet, NEVER transport a wet gun in a CLOTH or leather case! Leave it laying out for air to circulate. (same for mags and equipment like Darvis says) Near the heater in the vehicle if possible.

#1 Separate your major components and use lots of WD-40. WD stands for WATER DISPLACING. (take a can with you and spray as soon as possible) USE A LOT!

#2 Once you have chased all the water out with WD-40, clean and re oil with Break Free CLP or your regular gun oil.

#3 Putting it in a warm place next to heater vents or fireplace will help.

Make sure your case is DRY before returning it.

Magazines have a tendency to get wet INSIDE and folks forget to spray WD inside the mag....

Wood Stocked rifles get water between the wood and barrel. If possible, separate and allow the wood to completely dry before reassembly. Wood stocks act like a sponge and absorb water. As the water is absorbed the wood SWELLS to the point of putting pressure on the barrel and changing the POI of the rifle. It also tightens the gap to the point WD-40 and other oils can't get to the water to displace it. This is NOT an issue with plastic stocked weapons. WD-40 will go everywhere water will and penetrate some places water will not.

Most of these MG were used in ALL conditions from -30 degree winter extreme to the 120degree desert of North Africa and survived just fine! I have one recover that has some pretty deep pitting in the camming Piece area where it is obvious the gun was carried on the shoulder and rested on a sweaty neck...still function 100% and looks great after a refinish!

Go play and have fun! Don't baby it or treat it like a Ming Vase! Just reward it with some routine care afterwards and it will out live you by another 71 years!!

[JBaum]

If you spray on WD40, make sure to wipe it all off. It's very nasty crap when it dries. I'd compare it to dried honey. So thick it's not even gooey, and nearly impossible to get off once it dries. Never spray it anywhere that you can't wipe it off if you want to.

Great stuff for a wet ignition system for your car. Horrible for mechanical devices once it dries.

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

If you spray on WD40, make sure to wipe it all off. It's very nasty crap when it dries. I'd compare it to dried honey. So thick it's not even gooey, and nearly impossible to get off once it dries. Never spray it anywhere that you can't wipe it off if you want to.

Great stuff for a wet ignition system for your car. Horrible for mechanical devices once it dries.

"Water Displacement formula 40" will displace water from wetted materials, but when the solvents dry, graphite is left behind which will ATTRACT water. You are correct in saying that some other oil should be used in lieu of WD-40.

[JBaum]

WD-40 does not contain graphite.

It does contain solvents that don't evaporate completely, and leave a gummy residue, thick in places where the solvents don't run off, that will gunk up the works of any moving parts. Once a part is loose and free moving, get the WD-40 off and lubricate with oil.

[K98dkmauser]

i use clean 15-40 engine oil on all my guns . it sure lasts long never had a rust spot since and it reduces friction way better than that thin spray on oil

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I've had this tiny can of Singer sewing machine oil for years. Finally ran out. Good lubricating oil for post cleaning application or firing. Gotta get some more oil soon...

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

WD-40 does not contain graphite.

It does contain solvents that don't evaporate completely, and leave a gummy residue, thick in places where the solvents don't run off, that will gunk up the works of any moving parts. Once a part is loose and free moving, get the WD-40 off and lubricate with oil.

Nobody likes gummy stuff. Like evil cosmolene.

[www.Prussia.us]

I cannot top those above with superior knowledge, I went the dura-coat path, I miss the deep bluing, but as I have said many times, the dura-coat is impervious to nature but the crevices are not. There always are places that need attention if you are caught out in a freak storm by surprise or if reenacting/filming leaves you no choice, as mentioned get home, tear her down, and oil liberally, I use regular gun oil. I am sure there are cheaper alternatives but the days of 3-cut mg42 kits selling for $599 are long gone, so I would rather pay a little more for preservation.

Speaking of Angola 3-cut kits, "Bullwinkle" good to see you

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I'm eventually going to get a rifle for my wife, and am looking for an AR or AK to duracoat into the Hello Kitty Carbine in pink and white, just like that one in the internet pics. If anyone has an inexpensive rifle they want to sell as a candidate for a custom job like that, let me know.