www.MG42.us

Hey guys so im going to install a new brp front bushing and i got a question. Should i turn down the rear part of it to slip in the receiver or slice the receiver along its welds, flair it open to get in the bushing and then re-weld the receiver?i have a lathe so the turning is no worries. i like the fact the receiver would be capturing the bushing like the original but am i just making more work for myself?

Over the next few days, I'll be doing the same thing.

Rocco, who has built several MG42/M53s posted a message saying that you don't have to turn down the rear of the bushing and you don't have to cut the shroud. I think he opened the hole up to fit the rear of the bushing and then welded it in. He posted several pictures to show the process but they were apparently lost when the site was moved to a new server.

Maybe someone who has actually done this will chime in.

actually it should fit, just press it in. It will be really tight, but that is good, as it ensures a good alignment when welding. I know my bushing squeezed into my yugo m53 barrel shroud, after popping out the old one.

Mine was a snug fit also,just make sure your cut is square and the opening is debured...Like Michael J said
snug is a good thing.


Bill

Also hmm, you could try beveling one of the edges (receiver or bushing's) in order to get it started when press fitting it in. Aside from that , and as Bill has also stated, don't do anything else!

Thanks a lot guys! you all are a wealth of information like an infomercial

So for the 4 cut kits that had the front end cut, will you still have enough length using the brp bushing?

It will be fine i think on my kit there was still some of the original threads left just gas cut to hell .

I just received my BRP bushing in the mail today and I noticed that it has two flats on opposite sides cut into it directly behind the threaded portion. Should those flats be on the top and bottom or on the left and right?

DougF wrote:I just received my BRP bushing in the mail today and I noticed that it has two flats on opposite sides cut into it directly behind the threaded portion. Should those flats be on the top and bottom or on the left and right?

Actually look at the inside and you will notice a grooved area. This area is inletted so that your barrel may pivot outwards to the right (for your barrel door). Install all of the booster components and you will understand what i mean. It is essential that this groove is on the right, this will tell you the correct way of installing the bushing.

blakesguns wrote:So for the 4 cut kits that had the front end cut, will you still have enough length using the brp bushing?

I used like 8mm of length on my front end, and it was sufficient for welding it in place. Just be sure to put the barrel bushing in LAST ! you will determine just how far inwards it will sit after the rest of your parts are in. People complain about barrel doors not closing nicely, this is because their bushing was welded in too deep, and the barrel sits farther back, thus the bevel on the barrel extension is not correctly aligned to the bevel on your recup.

Well that is my theory anyways, because i was fooling around with this before i welded in mine. Unfortunately due to shrinkage, it is still a bit tight, but i just adjusted the bevel on my recuperator to compensate.


It is funny, but it seems like just yesterday that i was some , and was asking the same things as you all .

Now look where you are-nicely done! ---bil

Bil wrote:Now look where you are-

Hmm, i am now a slightly more experienced with a currently non-finished M53 ... Well I anticipate to finish sooner or later!

Michael J wrote: you will determine just how far inwards it will sit after the rest of your parts are in. People complain about barrel doors not closing nicely, this is because their bushing was welded in too deep, and the barrel sits farther back, thus the bevel on the barrel extension is not correctly aligned to the bevel on your recup.

I'd like to suggest you add a small spacer between the barrel and barrel bearing to guaranty the barrel never drives the nubs of the bearing into the ends of the grooves inside the bushing. A dime or a nickle should be about right.
It wouldn't take too much pounding to destroy the nubs.

Michael J wrote:

DougF wrote:I just received my BRP bushing in the mail today and I noticed that it has two flats on opposite sides cut into it directly behind the threaded portion. Should those flats be on the top and bottom or on the left and right?

Actually look at the inside and you will notice a grooved area. This area is inletted so that your barrel may pivot outwards to the right (for your barrel door). Install all of the booster components and you will understand what i mean. It is essential that this groove is on the right, this will tell you the correct way of installing the bushing.

Thanks Michael. Actually, I was aware of the need to index the bushing so that the barrel can be replaced but thanks for taking the time to ensure I knew this stuff. But I'm still wondering about the orientation of the flats on the outside of the bushing. I've read several times on this forum that BRP's bushing is an exact duplicate of the original. If that's true, then there should be flats on the MG42 guns. If anyone has an original MG42, could you please post a message that will let me know whether the flats were on top and bottom or left and right. I know it's a minor detail but it will bother me forever if I weld the bushing up incorrectly.

Also, thanks DI for adding the information about the dime (or nickel). I haven't read this before but it makes perfect sense and I'll ensure I comply.

I did a "tutorial" on this quite awhile back, you might want to search my old posts. The main thing is to have the old bushing section cut back far enough, you'll knock out the old busing innnards with a hammer and punch, I had one that was stubborn once and had to seperate it into two halves with careful use of a dremel cutoff wheel, it then punched out. Make sure it's cut back far enough, you can use a grinding stone on a drill to polish it out, the bushing should go right in at that point. I usually put a 2x4 block over it and whack it in the middle to get it to drive straight and not canted. Chris...

Morning DougF,
Please see photo,hope it's what you needed. The nose section of a German, war time production 42. Clearly shows flats on top/bottom.
later,cz2

Thanks CZ2. Whew. I've already welded it together and luckily, I put the flats on the top and bottom. I really appreciate you taking the time to take the photo and post it.

I am also at the point of installing the front barrel bushing. I already had a wiselite bushing on order so this is what I will be using. When I use the 37 11/16 measurement (from the back of the receiver to the end of the bushing) the barrel door is hard to close also. The only two options I see are to either bevel the edge of the recuperator or extend the bushing out farther. Which is correct? I would like to use Drooling Idiot's suggestion about using a dime as a shim to keep from battering the barrel bearing against the bushing. If i do though, this seems like it would make my initial problem worse. Your help is appreciated. Will post pics, hopefully tonight, when i get the bushing welded.
Thanks!
Blake

I used a dime when I positioned my bushing for welding. My barrel gate shuts just fine. However, I didn't try the gate with the bushing in the postion it would have been without the dime.

Good luck.