www.MG42.us

Finally got my twins done! Two are always better than one!

ive been soooo fortunate on these two beauties. Both have largely all german parts minus the rear stock pieces and of course the gripsticks due to the conversions. Both have german front shouds, top covers and bolts. Both also have german bipods. The barrels are new production green mtn's but ive got about 8 excellent to like new condition 8mm barrels that ive hand selected over the past 3 years or so. Im so proud that these are finally done, ive waited a long time for them.

redrivertactical wrote:Finally got my twins done! Two are always better than one!

How disappointing! And here I thought you were going to be posting about the Minnesota Twins winning the American League Central division.

Nice guns or whatever though......

RRT, you mention that you have bought barrels from "green mtn".

Is the the place?

http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/

Nice job!!!! They look great!

Very nice! Are your rears longer than normal? I'm just looking at pics of ratchet plate placements before i tack mine on!

actually the ratchet plates were purchased from rtg parts. The rear sections are wiselite semi rears(absolutely gorgeous-by the way). I was fortunate enough to find an individual that had 2 century m53 rifles that he had taken the production barrels out of and swapped them with i.o. original german 8mm barrels. I looked at these new barrels and immediately shelled out the cash for them. You cant beat them for just being shooters, cuz they have no real historical value. At least with those barrels it wont bother me to blow out a bunch of corrosive ammo. I was extremely surprised with the quality of the new barrels though, they look great and they shoot superbly. I rummaged and scrounged around every corner looking for extra stuff for these damned things and it shows. The bakelite rear stocks are enroute to complete the look too. A quick note to everyone, if you look hard enough and you know enough people that have parts kits, you can find original german front shrouds. You will know it when you find them because the front shroud has the AA site built in directly behind the front stand up sight. You can also spot a german shroud by looking at the barrel gate ( assuming it hasnt been changed) because it will have what looks like a large slotted screw instead of a rivet. German top covers can also still be had if you act quickly. Happy hunting....if i can help dont hesitate to ask...god bless

RRT - LOL, we did ask you a few questions .... but you didn't answer any of them, HAHA!

Is this where the barrels came from?

http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/

Your guns look longer between the rear end of the top cover & the rear of the receiver. What's the deal there?

What finish did you use? They look like they were parkerized - maybe?

They look great, by the way!

I think hes just excited .

Wiselite rears are made longer , as they have a buffer extension, so that sort of answered my question i guess.

GREAT looking set RRT

NICE Twins!!!!!!!!!!!

Hope to get one done as nice as yours someday....

THANKS for the post on German barrel Shrouds..

Later 42rocker

OUTSTANDING

Now that is one way to double your pleasure

I had not seen your posts in a while and wondered if, like many, you had to put the project on the back burner. I gather you were just waiting for the proper unveiling

They really look great, more historic beltfeds brought to life is always a great thing

sorry guys, but as one of our more esteemed colleagues pointed out, im extremely excited . I know that the barrels came from green mountain but i did not buy them directly from them. The extensions on the barrels are original german mfg. The way i got them was through a gentlemen that was selling them out of a couple of new century m53 rifles and replacing them with original german 8mm barrels. The rears are wiselites and they are longer because of the modified cone on the buffer. The plates are from rtg parts. The finishing is just a standard parkerizing. They look a little glossy because they are coated in wd40, cuz they had just been bathed in a soap,water and ammonia solution. I have found that shooting these is an otherworldly pleasure but cleaning them is an otherworldly pain in the ass. Ive found that hot soapy water first, then windex and a final baking in an oven at about 400 degrees works best to rid the gun of the corrosive salts and assure that there is no water left trapped in unseen places. I then bathe it in wd40 and let it penetrate over night(i have found that the water tends to come out of the tight spaces over night). After that i wipe her down and then lube with break free clp.

Cool! Thanks for the info on the barrels!

As for cleaning - look into using something other than WD40. That crap evaporates, right? Guess what it leaves behind? Fracking varnish, brother. B A D ju-ju for firearms...just plain BAD.

Using WD40 on a fine firearm - any firearm - makes the Baby Jesus cry.

Breakfree CLP .... Cleaner Lubricant Protectant. It's better than WD40, but the technology behind weapon maintenance has moved on since the inception of BF CLP.

Look into the SLiP2000 products

WHAT DOES IT LEAVE BEHIND? AND HOW DOES IT HURT THE GUN?

As I mentioned, it leaves behind a very thin layer of varnish/shellac (I'm not really sure of the difference between varnish and shellac, but either is BAD in a gun, LOL). It builds up over time & will eventually gum up the works.

Isn't having wd-40 also an flammable risk?

If you spray the barrel or receiver...and you shoot and the petroleum distollates (however you spell it!)...it is combustable.

well, either way i only use it as a cleaner and then its wiped off and replaced with clp. I dont use it in the action. but thank you all for your help.

I have been using wd-40 on my guns auto and semi for 30 years and never ever had an issue with it all the stories you hear are Bull $#it...

maybe if ya left your gun sitting in the sun for say 10 years it would dry and leave a residue but I challenge anyone to prove it leaves varnish residue as we have a ballistics CSI lab to prove you wrong ... lol
come on i dare you...

Rocco, Rocco, Rocco .... read your own sig line

Try this.....spray some WD into a small metal container...then heat it up a little (like a hot gun would do). See what you get? Gooey crud. Not nice for guns, brother.

Now try the same thing with SLiP2000 ... or even BF CLP.