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Ok so got my HF tig wired u and plugged in at work hooked up everything and just tryed to get an arc , had no regulator for my argon bottle. I had the machine on and grounded and went to touch the piece and no arc? The light came on for welding on the unit. So im not sure what the deal is , or if there is a certain way to creat a ARC. Im used to using a mig daily so welding isnt new.

m1-dan wrote:I had the machine on and grounded and went to touch the piece and no arc?

Last time i touched the torch to the piece, i zapped myself ...
Not sure i argon really makes a difference, it is an inert gas, used for shielding only (i think?) . By touch the piece, did you mean touching it torch to metal, or did you mean about a centimeter away from the metal to allow that little electric bolt thing to form?

The TIG i use is with a foot pedal, not sure about the HF one... Anyone else with a HF Tig have any input?

i touched it to the work piece and got nothing, ill check my cables today and see what i can do.

i have a hf tig---since it does not have a foot pedal --they say to get your electrode about an 1/8 of an inch away from the metal and THEN TURN THE TIG MACHINE ON---that is as hard as hell----what i do sometimes is i will turn my welder on---when you do that you should hear it run gas for about 1 sec---then i drag my "insulator" (the pink cermiac part)---not the tunstun tip --onto the part and it will usally arc--then i start welding---big thing is that when/if you touch the tip to the steel it will condaminate the weld---you will need to reweld that area--it will crack as said in other post
just my .02
waffen

well i tried today and my welder is bashed in on the bottom which i didnt notice at first so im gonna return it. The side of the case is bulged out too. Now on the HF tig units it isnt a gas activated unit which i mean buy that . That it would require gas flow to create a arc?

m1
i'm not sure what you are asking---i dont believe that the arc has anything to do with the gas --its your amp setting on the unit that will allow to strike an arc---the gas kinda creates an "atsophomere" of perferct welding conditions-around the tip--it drives away any inmpurities in the air
if your unit has a bulge in -its broke---return it and get another.
and try again
good luck
waffen

M1, most likely its the welder. Return it. But for future reference some home owner type welders will not produce amps if the amp setting dial is set between numbers: i.e. between 4-5, 6-7,8-9 etc. Not always but this can be the case. Something to try and remember. If it is the case usually you will just get a small spark, not arc, but very small spark. Also the ground is the biggest problem in most all welders. You must make sure the ground is well secured to the welder as well as the work piece. Always connect the ground to the work piece. In newer welders a good ground if connected to the welder and work piece properly is usually not that big an issue. But the older the welder gets the ground clamp is somewhat neglected and the connection between it and the work piece weakens. Even on brand new welders the poorest part of it is the ground clamp. If your welder sputters when you first start the weld, you have BAD ground.....

Yeah its my welder i tryed multiple things at the shop.I do autobody for a living so its nothing new to me as far as welding but TIG is a whole new world to me.

I own a Harbor Freight TIG and have used it with a copper strike plate. You need the Argon gas on or you will burn the tungsten rod. Pirate had a tutorial on welding somewhere with the HF TIG.

bolex wrote:I own a Harbor Freight TIG and have used it with a copper strike plate. You need the Argon gas on or you will burn the tungsten rod. Pirate had a tutorial on welding somewhere with the HF TIG.

This the one? http://www.projectguns.com/tig.html

That's the one! The first project I did with it was my MG42. Worked great. I wish I had gotten a TIG before my MIG, Stick, and Oxy-acetalene (sp?).

exchanged units today and fired up the new and it works blinded myself haha!