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When the internals are removed for the semi fireing pin, how is the the cartriage ejected from the bolt?

Ejector spoon stays and rides with the firing pin in the inside / middle. But functions the same way for semi or full auto.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but believe that I'm right.

Later 42rocker

In the process of modifying the bolt I see what you mean. The spring loaded assembly it rides on serves a different function. I thought at first they were one and the same. The anti-bounce is eliminated, which is independent of the ejector function, but you still retain the ejector "rod". During my modification I did figure out a way to keep this feature with the addition of the new firing pin.

That sounds great.

Later 42rocker

Anyone know how long the ejector spoon is?

4 - 1/16"

Great thanks jbaum. Making my own just for grins Going to buy one but in my original kit it was missing.

There are 2 different types war time style and post war style.

Later 42rocker

Here are some pics of my bolt mod with it maintaining the anti-bounce. The tube below the green spring and the green spring are now performing the anti bounce and ejector spoon function.

That's an interesting way of doing it. I like it...

Did you do the rest of the set up in semi auto or ???

Later 42rocker

You realize that the reason nobody uses the anti-bounce spring in a semi-auto is because it shoots from a closed bolt and it isn't needed, right?

It is a semi set up. I do understand the difference the open and closed bolt operations. With the original design having spring tension on the rollers while at battery, it just bothered me having just the firing pin springs providing the only resistance to keep it "locked up". Here is a better pic of the whole assembly in order.

The firing pin springs would have little effect on the locking rollers.

Originally, the MG42 was made without the anti-bounce spring. The rollers were locked and kept locked by the recoil spring, which actually still does that job, although assisted by the anti-bounce spring. In full auto fire, the bolt would rarely but sometimes bounce out of battery too soon. The anti-bounce spring fixed that. With a semi-auto, the few hundredths of a second rate of locking/unlocking is not critical, so it's not a problem.

Having the anti-bounce spring in there will only make the gun more difficult to get it to operate properly, as more energy will be needed to unlock the breech with the unnecessary anti-bounce spring, draining energy away that's needed to operate the belt and ejection. The semi-auto MG42 is marginal for sufficient energy to cycle to begin with, and this subtracts from the already minimal operating energy.

Otherwise, nice bolt job.

My thoughts, do what you want. I give my opinion, I'm not offended by people who choose their own way, and I'm happy when they're successful.

I have no problem with constructive criticism. I am new to this firearm and I may be fixing a problem that is not there. If it doesn't work well all I have to do is remove the die spring. Thank you for your input.

Which goes back to a question asked before did you do the semi job on the bolt or who???

It looks nice no matter who dod it.

Later 42rocker

I did the work myself. I did a lot of reading here and thought I could fix some of the misfire problems if I could make the bolt function as close as possible to its original design. Maybe it will work great, maybe not. It’s worth a try. I enjoy doing this kind of work.

Good Work.... Looks like one that the pro's did that have been doing it for a while.

Good Luck with everything.

Later 42rocker

Thank you for the compliment . It's amazing what you can do with the right tools.

Dlbard, I like what you did with the ejector spoon. That is pretty good work. I myself dont have a lathe or milling machine but i seem to get by with my drill press,mig, and dremel. I really want to invest in a mill though. I am just getting started on my CFS M53 as well. I am excited to finally have a belt fed in the collection. Did you do the bolt carrier yourself or weld on the part for the recoil spring? From what i hear the recoil spring will need to be shortened. Is that correct?

Mechwarrior, a few things for you, he said that he did the work himself, did a great job of it I think. Also if you blow the pic of it you will see the sand casting marks of the front part of the bolt carrier so I would say that he redid an old bolt carrier and welded the back on and did not make a one piece bolt carrier. If you search around here you will find info on cutting the spring I believe that you need to slowly cut it back starting with about 1 and 1/2 loops cut of, find the topic on it. Then it talks about soldering up the end of it after you get the right size.

dlbard
How is that bolt working for you in the back as the bottom area is normally cut open. Don't you have a problem with the full auto bolt blocker??

Later 42rocker