Coldsteel 80% receiver and 53M kit

[artech]

Coldsteel is at:
http://www.coldsteelsolutionsincorporat ... nc_003.htm
Hope this helps.

[42rocker]

Well it looks like several have used the cs 80%. Then there is the wl.
Some talk of the Capt Kirt model.

Which one should I think about adding to the back half of my yugo??

Is their a cleaned up verision of this tread or build that bolex did, like the cleaned up Pirate builds?

THANKS to all that post how they do things.

THANKS from the new kid on the block!

Later 42rock

[fire94]

HI all im new here but wanted to ask what would be the easiest way to mark and drill the rail holes in the receiver. By the way i also got a coldsteel receiver and will post pics of the one i received.

[bolex]

I would locate and install the cam first.The rails are located from this point both along the length of the receiver and up and down in the receiver.

[fire94]

Thanks for the info on rail placement Bolex. I will be putting the pics of my receiver from coldsteel soon.

[Rahatlakhoom]

I finally started my CS build. Very-very helpful Bolex. I owe you.
I found the feed-tray on my blank was far from fitting properly.
So much so, that I spot heated the bend with a small flame and beat it down
with a peen hammer. I still had to grind, but this I feel saved me from grinding
away the metal in the bend area entirely.



So far, so good. It's typical CS, it makes you earn every inch.

[bolex]

Real good start on your 53. And you are right, coldsteel makes you work for it. I was disappointed in that the wiselite receiver didn't go together easier from what I read on pirate's page. I guess I was assuming that you would weld on the barrel shroud and install everything without having to fit the parts.

I see you also installed the door in front of the grip, nice.

[Bil]

Mine was a complete German re-weld,and I still needed to fit many of the parts! I guess none of these are real easy! But well worth it in the end.Nice job,guys! ---bil

[gunter]

The USPS brought mine today. Just a quick once over at lunch and there are some "opportunities" as my boss likes to call them.

The big one is that the bend area behind the camming section is no way parallel to the camming section where the feed tray sits. The left side is back farther than the right. Might have to heat and recontour that spot or cut out/weld back.

The rest is just touching up some welds. About what I expected. So next will be digging the kit back out, rereading this post several times, and start doing some fitting. IIRC the distance from the back edge of the camming section to the rear of the receiver is 15.5 inches? These numbers are from memory,do not use as fact.

Thanks to Bolex for showing us how to get r done.

P.S. Rahatlakhoom some guys at the other place was wondering how the 8mm AK was doing.

Rahatlakhoom??? Oklahoma Rat..Art...Tar?

[Rahatlakhoom]

There are deviations on this thing. The bolt was a bear to get to slide freely in the rails.
Hanging up in several areas. I'm riveting the rails now.
The 15.5" distance is aproximately correct. I've installed the camming (trunnion?)
and measure 14.75" from rear to rec. rear. 18" overall for blank.

Here's an interesting 80% 42 receiver. This thing is milled, and not that expensive
comparitively speaking, if it's done to close tolerances. This is the direction I will go for
build #2 Phiiadelphia Ordnance. Check it out.

http://www.philaord.com/


The 8mm AK is complete. All bugs are worked out over the course of a month.
Took heavier spring, more gas venting. Will eat Yugo or Romy ammo like a champ.

The big one is that the bend area behind the camming section is no way parallel to the camming section where the feed tray sits. The left side is back farther than the right. Might have to heat and recontour that spot or cut out/weld back.

The rest is just touching up some welds. About what I expected. So next will be digging the kit back out, rereading this post several times, and start doing some fitting. IIRC the distance from the back edge of the camming section to the rear of the receiver is 15.5 inches?

Thanks to Bolex for showing us how to get r done.

P.S. Rahatlakhoom some guys at the other place was wondering how the 8mm AK was doing.

Rahatlakhoom??? Oklahoma Rat..Art...Tar?

[par0thead151]

wow, kinda wish i went with the milled receiver now.
only 100$ more and it looks pretty slick.
how does it arrive as it is still an 80%? like in the photos? the descriptions says all the parts fit, which would make it a 100% would it not?

There are deviations on this thing. The bolt was a bear to get to slide freely in the rails.
Hanging up in several areas. I'm riveting the rails now.
The 15.5" distance is aproximately correct. I've installed the camming (trunnion?)
and measure 14.75" from rear to rec. rear. 18" overall for blank.

Here's an interesting 80% 42 receiver. This thing is milled, and not that expensive
comparitively speaking, if it's done to close tolerances. This is the direction I will go for
build #2 Phiiadelphia Ordnance. Check it out.

http://www.philaord.com/


The 8mm AK is complete. All bugs are worked out over the course of a month.
Took heavier spring, more gas venting. Will eat Yugo or Romy ammo like a champ.

The big one is that the bend area behind the camming section is no way parallel to the camming section where the feed tray sits. The left side is back farther than the right. Might have to heat and recontour that spot or cut out/weld back.

The rest is just touching up some welds. About what I expected. So next will be digging the kit back out, rereading this post several times, and start doing some fitting. IIRC the distance from the back edge of the camming section to the rear of the receiver is 15.5 inches?

Thanks to Bolex for showing us how to get r done.

P.S. Rahatlakhoom some guys at the other place was wondering how the 8mm AK was doing.

Rahatlakhoom??? Oklahoma Rat..Art...Tar?

wow, kinda wish i went with the milled receiver now.
only 100$ more and it looks pretty slick.
how does it arrive as it is still an 80%? like in the photos? the descriptions says all the parts fit, which would make it a 100% would it not?

[Gungrubber]

The phili ord reciver is for dummy builds only I think.

GG

[Bil]

The external parts fit,it is the inside that is unfinished.Use the 'search' function here to find several threads on the Philly receiver.[I still don't know how to do the link thingy]. ---bil

[gunter]

Spent Sunday installing block pin and then fitted the buffer. I only had to remove some metal on the right side to get the buffer to turn. However looking down the receiver the buffer spring doesn't appear to be in the middle of the rail dimples. It doesn't like very much from hitting the top of the bolt roller slot. Stuck the recoil spring on the buffer and it hits the top of the receiver and won't let the buffer turn. Hopefully after cutting the relief in the bottom of the receiver it will let the buffer line up with the rails. BUT, there shouldn't be that much clearence in the receiver end should there? It looks like the bottom might need to be cut loose, bent up, and rewelded.

Now to the front end. In Bolex's pics it appears that the cam piece fits his receiver very well. On mine the CSS receiver is only 1.877" tall. The orginal M53 is 1.925, when splitting the difference it will only be .024" per side. The inside of the cam piece measured 1.942-1.944". A difference of .067 between it and the CSS receiver, so should I spot weld some pads out of .040 and file to fit the cam piece?

[Bil]

On the original receivers there are two pads on top,two on bottom,very thin.The ones on mine show signs of filing,I believe these are used to fit the camming piece.You may get away with just spots of weld built us in this area,and filed so the cam piece fits.They can be used to make sure the piece sits square to the rails,even if your receiver is off a slight bit. ---bil

[bolex]

Mine was tight on the cam and I had to file a little off. The original german receivers had small pads to machine to size/fit to compensate for the tolerance of a stamped part. The indented rail rivet pads most likely served the same purpose. Darn, bil beat me to the answer. Oh well

One thing to note that there are two different CS receivers out there, the first ones like I got and the second ones that were made on replacement tooling after CS had some dies swiped. This may account for the difference between my receiver and yours.

[gunter]

Thanks guys. It is one from the new tooling. I'll see if I can get a pic of the buffer fit.

[Rahatlakhoom]

The phili ord reciver is for dummy builds only I think.

GG

Thanks.
Yes. I gather from this '06 thread, the bolt will not function,
Would require expensive broach cutting of internals.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3387

[gunter]

Here is a pic of the buffer and shell mismatch. The bottom is barely touching. Looking down the shell is appears that the last 2 inches slope down.



The left side of the shell is straight, but the right side has a bow. You can see where the side starts to bend out about half way down the bump part of the shell. Sorry for the pic quality. The arrows point to gaps between the metal pieces that probably is the reason why.



So what would be the best way to repair this? Cut the bottom 2 inch first, pull it up, and weld. Then cut the right side above the bump piece, pull it in, and weld. Keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't inpart a twist in the shell. ????

[Rahatlakhoom]

Gunter, I have the same out of square rear end that you do.
You are looking for 1/4 turn that will lock the buffer into the 2 cams.
It took me a day of working on clearances and installing cams, and locking lever.
My cam pieces are .130" thick.

Just so the buffer will insert sideways, the circular ring on the buffer plate will engage and
rotate. I don't think you need to do any chopping and welding.

I've got good buffer cam material, stainless steel. If any of you guys need some
I can send some your way. Cut to length and bent for contour.