Build question; BOLT and firing pin

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Bullwinkle
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Build question; BOLT and firing pin

Post by Bullwinkle »

Okay,
I have the grip stick figured out, i have cut the receiver sections so FA parts can NOT be used. I have a TIG welder expert ready to fire up the torch. His first weld is a plug to prevent a FA bolt from being allowed inside the rec'vr.... I'm ALMOST ready.....but......


I need pictures and REALLY clear instructions and ADVICE on how to covert the BOLT and firing pin.....that IS the ONLY thing I have yet to fully understand and figure out how to convert and build. Is there a stock FP that I can modify or do I need to have one made???? I need some help here guys as I REALLY want to get this beast up and running whilst I have the funds to do so...otherwise, I'll get cash poor and sell my premo kit and regret it for the next 50 years.....

I do NOT like the idea of a LONG unsupported firing pin....drilling through the bolt catch and or another modification that allows a properly hardened FP is the direction I'm leaning....

HELP!!!
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TOM R
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Post by TOM R »

hey huntsinmtns now that you got some free time maybe you could post pics for bw here :D
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Post by Bullwinkle »

This thread just got a PULSE!!!! (It's still on the slab and cold however..)
God bless you Tom!!!
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Post by TOM R »

george is the man to ask for pics and directions and is glad to help but is super buisy between his work schedule and all of us swamping him with bolt and trigger mods so have patience my son and all you questions will be answered in due time :D
Great men are born in fire, it is the privilege of lessor men to light the flame, no matter the cost


FOR M60 GOTO http://WWW.M60MG.COM
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huntsinmtns

Post by huntsinmtns »

Well I have not figured out a way for a 2 pc firing I think it would lose to much energy even with the heavy spring and there is the possibilty of slam fires which none of us want, that could lead to a out of battery explosion , I would say that the firing pin is reasonably supported between the back and front. The feed stud which is hardened has a hole drilled thru ( indicated in for the truest center I can get) then I drill thru the striker(wedge) that is also hardened I use carbide drills because it makes my job easier. I tig weld the the bottom of the feed stud so it will not rotate 1st.

Here are dimensions for the ext. 1.210 O.D .950 I.D. FLAT ON TOP .625 ACROSS CLE FOR HAMMER .450 that can vary on the big side 1/2 if needed THE C-BORE ON BACK OF EXT. IS .05 DP AND A DIA. OD 1.180 just so the spring will rest in it.

If you need a blank fp I have core pins already hardened just grind or turn your profile and solder or braze your stops on it, that can vary depending on how much spring you want to use to retract your fp.


Hopefully this helps.
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Post by Bullwinkle »

Thanks a LOT huntsinmtns.
I now understand how to get a Firing pin through the feed stud...I guess the stud doesn't have to rotate freely to function properly.

I understand all the measurements except the .450-1/2inch ???? What is the OAL of the extension????


Is there a place or thread I can see the extension??? Or do you sell the extensions already turned? I have access to welder, mill and lathe but would rather just save a WHOLE lot of time by getting as many prefabricated parts as possible.
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huntsinmtns

Post by huntsinmtns »

The .450 -.500" is the slot for which the hammer passes thru to hit fp, OAL length is 2.750. I have parts available pm me. the ext. are 40.00 turned and milled and fp are 4.00 for a blank and 10.00 finished. These parts I have at home.
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Post by Bullwinkle »

All right... I think I'm set....one LASt question...HOW do you "capture" or retain the firing pin in the extension?
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Post by huntsinmtns »

BW,
silver solder or braze some washers on the fp, in the front you will need some spring to keep fp retracted so it does not slam fire. I have also seen one guy whoo used a single washer and 2 springs. This is trial and error until you get it, not much of a answer but it varies from weapon to weapon.
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