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Made my own receiver, designed so you don't have to cut a slot for the charging handle, instead it rides in a channel. The bolt blocker, a tapped and screwed in bolt,welded in.

hakentt, I am not attacking you on this-- you are closing your eyes to the advice and answers to your question, your looking for a simple measurement? it's like your asking how to wind a watch with a pair of pliers.

sorry, my former post, wasn't helpful. get yourself some layout blue and a metal scribe. make your cuts on the inside of the line, use squares for all your layouts. did you measure each side of the receiver shells? one side or the other, maybe both-- may need some milling, be advised of your O.D.

I admire your zest on building the hardest part kit on earth, without planning and forethought. I suggest you slow down, I know your at a disadvantage not having machine tools--cosmeticly speaking. the areas you have opened, give the impression of ( I can't wait to get this step done so I can advanc...

what do you mean by "hack job" ?

what type of grip handle set up you plan on using will come into play, be aware of this.

it's been a few years past, but I recall getting some rivets from John Deere, the sickle bar for a combine used this same size. Or maybe International, can't really recall which.

found this wiselite receiver on a gun show. the charging handle slot was cut so deep there was no metal left, plus the reinforcement bumps height were grinded down about half way,who knows why? for $20.00 I could not pass it up. thought I would give it a go and repair this butchered up area. was goi...

crazy stuff comes out all the time, I have a DOT 1943 serial #51, mines a lower SN# later date--WEIRD

maybe not ,the FABFS is set up for ar15 bolt ,i don't think the principle is there for a long semi-auto bolt stroke?

wow, really needed all that fitting,that sucks. I guess I should have mentioned back in sept. just make your own receiver. iron worker, over @ weapons guild, shows how he did it. I made four myself, its really quite easy, at least it was for me. the first one i had about 12 hours time making one, th...

that red circled area is ground down much to low. you moved your rails? look on this site for( pirates) bolt build.

headspace has nothing to do with hammer follow. as with any firearm before firing one round, this must be checked, your not making a toy. think about it, its your face, possible even your life, this will have to be your call. I have witnessed an out of battery explosion, it wasn't pretty--the fellow...

there is one thing I over looked,( very important) did you or your father headspace the bolt and barrel? if not, do.

any luck yet? did you happen to check disconnector spring --broken by chance or upside down. just thinking, sometimes its overlooked. you also said, ejection problems-- is the bolt going reward enough, caused by to much spring tension, ie, the coils impacting other or just by site the spring appears...

as I stated, it's like doctor on the phone. yes to #1- yes to # 2 -- extra power hammer spring. just look at the areas I mentioned. if you feel there not the problem, don't mess them up. look else where, fire control group, bolt height, rail system. bolt extension rearward--it's there somewhere. thi...

and one more thing, a Wolf extra power spring might help?

yes, you are getting hammer drag. in your 1st, top photo, hammer face to left-- you need to radius the 90 degree a little @ a time-- and check. as well, radius the bird beak face just a little @ a time-- you 3rd photo that looks like you have Prussian blue on. if this was here in front of me , I cou...

check and see if the hammer tail is bottoming out, that can cause hammer follow or not resetting. i'll follow you along and see if we can fix this. it's going to like a doctor telling you what's wrong on the telephone.

just what type grip handle set up are you using?








just what type grip handle set up are you using, OEM W/box, BRP design,etc. something completely home made ?????