Bil's build

Ask your build questions here. Welding, assembly, etc.
Bil
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Bil's build

Post by Bil »

I have started to get ready to begin.This is NOT a tutorial,don't take it as one.I am using the info from here,especially Pirates build,also info and pics from Pstout.Thanks,guys. I will try to take pics as I go.This is the first gun I have built,so it will be trial error,and fun.I hope you like it,and I hope to hear any comments,suggestions,and any tips about what I am doing right or wrong.If you see something I am doing wrong or if you have a better or differant way,tell me.I can take criticism without getting mad.So here goes
Bil
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Post by Bil »

First I got 2 1/8 thick steel bars,18 " long. 1 was 1",the other was 1 1/4" The 1" was for the right side.all referances will be given from the rear,like a car.The 1" is to clear the cocking slot .I had to grind the 1 1/4 down in the front to clear in one spot.I am doing 2 builds at a time ,a 3 cut and a 4 cut.Some steps will apply to only one of these.I wanted the bars to protrude at both ends,I may run into trouble in the front.My 3 cut has all 5 rivet holes in 1 piece,so I can use that to locate my bar holes.First I marked the front hole,with an arrow for direction.
Attachments
Bar marked (600 x 450).jpg
Bil
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Post by Bil »

Next I clamped the bar inside the receiver piece,lining up my mark through the 1st hole,and drilled,using a 5/32 bit.There was a big storm and I dragged my drill press inside where it was warm,and did all of my work in the kitchen.Warning to any married guys,or those that want to be-Don't try this at home.Women get mad about this kind of stuff,metal filings in the sugar bowl,etc.When it warms up I will be back in the shop. I drilled all 5 holes,bolting it in as I went,so as to prevent movement,keep all holes aligned.
Attachments
Drilling bar (600 x 450).jpg
Bil
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Post by Bil »

I bought some 1 1/2 x1 1/2 Unistrut at a HVAC supply,I wanted a flatter type,but it was not in stock.I cuy 1 piece 48",and 2 pcs 8" for legs.This is all a mock-up,and will be welded later.There is no 220 outlet in my kitchen yet.I also bought 48" of 1/2" threaded rod,and cut it into 6" segments.I could have gotten away with 24",and 4 segments.I threaded a nut on each before cutting,and used it to clean up the threads.I will de-burr the ends and run a tap over them later.The 8" legs will also be cleaned up and welded on the 48" piece.I laid out the pieces of receiver,and installed the rods and nuts as needed.I will make square washers for the bottom,they will fit better.
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Rough jig (600 x 450).jpg
Bil
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Post by Bil »

This is how I put the rods in.I will use 1 1/2 square washers on the bottom,as they will fit the unistrut better,more surface area.I will also double-nut this before welding,or use locking nuts-not sure yet.The rear 2 rods I had to re-set lower to clear the top cover,I also had to put the nuts and washers down inside.I had to make sure all this would also work with the other receiver,and not get in the way of any welding.I also have to make the copper backing plates,I will get scrap from a roofing job.
Attachments
1st try (600 x 450).jpg
Jig detail1 (600 x 450).jpg
Bil
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Post by Bil »

With the uni-strut I can move the pieces front and back,also a little side to side.By tightening and moving the nuts,I can move the pieces up and down.Nothing is aligned yet,I am just doing the jig right now.I have a Pirates FCG assembly,and have several bolts sent to him for his mods.I have access to a machine shop,but am saving my favors for a 34 build,and don't want to wear out my welcome yet.Also if I use Pirates FCG,I want the bolts to match.All from one source.I clamped the rear piece,and will use measurements and the top cover to fit it.I was going to put small metal blocks where the cam section goes,bolt them to the bars.But the longer bars interfere with the camming section,so I will have to figure out something different there.I will also have to do something else in front,I was going to use 1/4 " rod through the gas release holes to support the front,but it was too flimsy.I will make something that slides inside instead.All this has taken about 2 hours,and about 25 bucks worth of supplies,and it is all re-usable!I have been cleaning the torched areas on the receivers,and will try to start welding next weekend,with more work in the jig in between. ---bil
Attachments
Rec on rough jig (600 x 450).jpg
rear view on jig (600 x 450).jpg
rear view 1 (600 x 450).jpg
Rec on jig1 (600 x 450).jpg
propos

Post by propos »

Good gravy Bil, but you're using a lot of bandwidth. Phew. I felt like I was at the drive-in movies. I turned the speakers on hoping to hear "Ride of the Valkyries". No luck.
But it's looking good. Great pictures and great detail. I made a cradle to hold the recoil booster, aka flash hider, from a piece of angle iron. I welded a section of all-thread to the bottom. With the nuts on, I could adjust it up and down. But it would have been better if the angle iron would remain fixed while the elevation was adjusted. I never got to that point. Instead I used js412000"s jig. I was intending to use a flexible clamp to hold the recoil booster in place once I had it positioned correctly. Somewhere there is a picture of it. Unfortunately I don't know how to link to it, but it is there.
Just remember to only tack weld and not try to completely weld the pieces together all at once.
I used the same set-up to hold the rear section in place like you are doing. It worked great.
At the cam holes, I used a copper backer and flat stock to keep everything aligned while I tack welded that section. Same with the nose section. From what I can see, you're doing fine. Just remember to take a deep breath and say a prayer to the receiver gods right before you strike that first arc on that irreplaceable receiver. :D
Happy welding.
Last edited by propos on Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
avman
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Post by avman »

You must not be married. My wife would kill me if I had to finish my wood floors and I am working on a gun.

Also, working in the kitchen??? She must be a saint or does not exist.

Get the welder out. The 220v is behind the stove. Home Depot has the plug.
Bil
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Post by Bil »

My wife is long gone-kids moved out.I can do as I please now.I even open the windows and shoot from the living room on rainy days.Good earplugs.I finally got to where I can have some fun!Look out! :shock: My stove is gas-I havent used it in years,a welder would fit right in. propos-thanks for the tips,nothing is set yet,I can still change things.I have chopped the top on a couple of cars,so I know about how to tack,cool,and fill.Jump from spot to spot on the welds.I sure dont want to mess up these receivers! :cry: I think it will be fun,though. I don't know how to post pics without using up bandwidth.I dont even know what it is,just that it isnt good to use too much.I'm guessing its one of those new designer drugs! Thanks. ---bil
turbothis

Post by turbothis »

oh man! i am going to bill's! look great and the story is just as good. i hope you and your wife worked out friendly in the end, no disrespect.
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DARIVS ARCHITECTVS
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Post by DARIVS ARCHITECTVS »

I'm not married either, and as proof I submit that during the winter months, I built a 250 BC 3/4 ton siege engine in my living room. It barely fit.
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS
Knight's Armoury
RaccoonRough

Post by RaccoonRough »

Hey,

Could we see a picture of that. What living history group are you a member of?

RR
smokinggun

Post by smokinggun »

Hey Bil , just a suggestion. When I welded my receiver I used copper water line that I flattened in my mill vice. I used my rails in the parts kit to line up the rivet holes, marked the location of the holes and drilled. It worked great to back up my welds and hold the receiver in position.
elmacgyver0

Post by elmacgyver0 »

Where's the Kitty ?

Great pictures !
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Post by Abominog »

How do you line up the front end though? I see a single support and it doesn't appear to go through a hole in the FH. The inside of the front end isn't flat, so a washer is going to skew it sideways. Looking for the best & easiest way to do this.
FNG
Bil
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Post by Bil »

My idea didn't work out-I am figuring out what to do there.There are several options-use an angle iron cradle with adjusting bolts,use a flat steel plate with a pipe to fit in the bearing,set up on an eccentric to adjust,or install the rails and use ordnance solutions rail jig as part of it.I am still looking,and am open to all suggestions.Thanks. ---bil
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longhorn109
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Post by longhorn109 »

It's nice to see I am not the only person that posts pics showing the house in mid renovation ;)
If my other half knew there were pics on the net showing the state of the house, she would have a fit and then go nuclear on my ass :shock:

I used to do this sort of thing with cars in my mum's house, there are still 2 old BMWs in the drive. The shed is full of parts and so is one of the rooms in her house.

Your receiver looks like a good one it should be a nice straight forward build, once you have the jig figured out.

We don't get the reweld problem over the pond :D and we don't have to worry about the cost/availability of ammo coz we cannot shoot :cry:
Bil
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Post by Bil »

What will you do if the Germans start acting up again? Actually,the house was finished except the flooring-I cut out part of the countertop to fit in the drill press.I will put in a new one when I am done.You should see the living room-MGs all over!It is like a vaccination for marriage! :roll: ---bil
resting
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Post by resting »

Bil wrote:My idea didn't work out-I am figuring out what to do there.There are several options-use an angle iron cradle with adjusting bolts,use a flat steel plate with a pipe to fit in the bearing,set up on an eccentric to adjust,or install the rails and use ordnance solutions rail jig as part of it.I am still looking,and am open to all suggestions.Thanks. ---bil
Looking at the photos of Pete Stout's jig it looks like he uses a round piece which fits into the mouth of the bushing to set up the muzzle end piece, that's welded to a perpendicular piece which is fastened to the end of the jig. I'm several thousand miles from home but I'm thinking I have a short piece of round electric conduint there that might just fit. Wish I were home so I could check it for you.
elmacgyver0

Post by elmacgyver0 »

Couldn't you run a piece of pipe down through the shroud and center the pipe in the shroud. you would have to have the end of the pipe the correct diameter for the threaded nose piece to slide over, no slop, maybe a bushing over the pipe or even wrap it with that aluminum duct tape ( shades of Red Green!) leave off the nose cone and have the pipe extend out the front a few inches and have a hole drilled thru the pipe for a piece of your threaded rod to fasten to your unistrut jig so you can adjust it easyly.

I have never done this, but it is an idea you may try.

you will have to probably have to make some holes in the pipe to run the threaded rods that you have holding the shroud in place. make those holes large enuff so you can adjust the centering of the pipe...hope this all makes sence. good luck
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