www.MG42.us

Pictures will be reposted soon.

The MG42 ejects the fired shell with such force, that the case mouth is dented when it spins into the trigger guard. This makes it very difficult to reload the brass.

Here's what I made to stop that.

Make this from a piece of coat hanger about 3/32" in diameter.

Leave the rubber hose off the wire for now. Remove the grip and dust cover. Insert the zigzag ends into the MG42 grip holes (where the axle for dust cover goes. There is a small hole in the receiver on each side that isn't covered when the grip is in place. The wire fits in there, then the grip is reinstalled. Leave the dust cover off. Slide the rubber hose over the wire (you'll need to squeeze it flat to do that, but it stays on very well if the bottom of the bumper is slightly wider than the holes next to the grip).

Now when you shoot, the rubber hose will protect the case mouth of the empty shell from being damaged.

More pics.

More pics.

Thanks John
I'm sure all of this who reload and want to reload for the MG42 will appreciate this. I know I do.

Thanks for the information. I have been struggling with how to protect empty shell cases and it seems you have discovered the answer.

Thanks Bob

Thanks for more of your great help John.
Steve

Has anyone ever tried to simply screw the hose to the front of the trigger guard? I bought a 53 trigger group and tried but the weapon did not fire. I think the trigger group was non functional; have not had a chance to get out and try again. I don't know enough about this weapon to know if my brass bumper is in the way or what.

Just want to shoot and not dent brass.

If you don't care about the trigger group, you could pop rivet the piece of hose to the front of the trigger guard. Just don't put the rivet or rivets where the shell hits.

John, thanks for the response. I used a small bolt instead of a rivet because I wanted to be able to replace the tubing as required. I also cut a small hole in one side of the tubing to allow me to put the bolt in and when screwed in it pulls itself into the inside of the tubing so that it is not on the outside. Problem is, I did not check out this trigger group before I did this and something about it doesn't seem to work correctly. I think it probably needs to be reworked.

You are a pretty knowledgeable person. It sure would be nice for someone to organize and run a training session regarding the maintenance and repair of these items. I bought mine several years ago but had no prior experience. Learning is difficult; I would gladly travel to such a session.

Thanks

Bob

The function of the trigger group can be checked out of the gun. When you pull the trigger, the rear arm lowers and stays lowered when you release the trigger. When it's in the gun, the rearward traveling bolt has a tab on the bottom of the bolt that hits the small lever in the top front of the trigger group, and pushes it rearward. This releases the sear (rear lever) to go up and catch the bolt (in the open position). Pull the trigger again, and the sear goes down. releasing the bolt to go forward (if it's in the gun) . Push rearward on the little front lever, and the sear pops back up. Testing the function of the safety is obvious, and there really isn't much else to it unless you have broken or bent parts. Soaking in kerosene and blowing it out with an airgun is the easiest way to clean it. A few drops of oil and you're good to go after that.


I've done a few one-on-one sessions for the MG42 at my place. I set up a table and chairs in the garage and go through everything I can think of. When someone brings their gun and all the accessories, I usually manage to kill 3 hours. I had one guy bring 20+ barrels and 5 bolts, and we checked headspace on every combination. We found a few that couldn't work together, but most were good. I even managed to fix his belt loader that had been dropped. In short, a good time was had by both of us. I live in the country and can safely shoot in my side yard. The neighbors don't care, and having been a deputy sheriff for 5 years a while back doesn't hurt when it comes to any complaints the sheriff gets about machinegun fire.

The manuals I've translated have educated me quite a bit about the gun. Several years as a car mechanic doesn't hurt either for diagnosing the mechanical problems.

I've also had people bring their broken guns to me at knob creek. I may not have the tools, but I usually manage to tell them the problem and how to fix it.

Again thanks for your reply.

Might just have to submit a BATF form to allow me to visit with you sometime. I plan on being at the creek again this Oct and perhaps we can get together. I would really appreciate someone to look over my gun.

I went out again this afternoon with all my spare parts and finally got it running. I am shooting reloaded 7.62x51 and Tulsa ammo. Had the same issue with both.

Problem seems to be bolt. For some reason it would push a round forward but not into the barrel. I changed the spring, top cover and feed tray and it made no difference. I changed bolts (I have 5) and it started to run. I can't imagine why the bolt would make that kind of difference.

Have bought all your books pertaining to all my weapons plus some cook and training books. Look forward to running into you.

Bob
256-651-0056

One of the nice things about a curio and relics license is that you no longer need to fill out paperwork to take an MG to another state. The C&R license is your authorization to transport a C&R gun. $30 for 3 years. Worth every bit of it to keep from screwing the the interstate authorization.

I had to miss the creek this April, but I'll be there next October. Table C17 in the pole building.

If the cartridge doesn't feed into the barrel, it may well be an incorrectly bent pressure plate. Closing the top cover with a cartridge belt in and the bolt forward can do that.