8mm head stamp ID

[marknct]

I did a search and couldn't find much of anything to break down the head stamp here.
Brass case on 5 rnd brass stripper clips. Looks like new.
Head reads
7.9/T (crown looking symbol) C/ 1951/F.S.
What is it and does it function in a SA42?
thanks guys

[42rocker]

Would like to see a pic.

Later 42rocker

[marknct]

I'll borrow a camera that can take that close shot.
It looks like it's 1951 Turkish. The BRP manual mentions Turk as one to avoid, to bad it's like new.
Has a bullet crimp with 6 little flats.

[marknct]

I can't seem to take a good pic. Found this one on the net, it's the same except the date is 1951 on these. Have you guys had any luck with the turk ammo?

[amafrank]

That is indeed turk 8mm and I've had great luck with it ..... if you call it luck. It has brought me more work than any other single type of ammo out there though the indian .308 has come close.
If you want to blow something up or destroy a gun that is the ammo to use. It is crap in semi's and machineguns and is like playing the lottery. You may get thousands of rounds downrange or just a couple before it blows something up. I won't shoot it in bolt actions because it is so corrosive and the muzzle velocity varies so badly. We chrono'd it from 2200fps to 3400fps. Much of the ammo has bad brass which is brittle and cracks while other cases are fine. It is incredibly inconsistant and in my opinion is trash.


Hope that helps you make a decision.


Frank

[marknct]

Thanks Frank, that is exactly what i was looking for. If the brass is that sketchy it wouldn't make sense to grab it for pull down. Unless it gets cheap enough to make pulling the bullets for reload attractive. I suppose running the mic over a sample of bullets would be prudent.

[K98dkmauser]

if you have a lot of that turk 8mm you could pull the bullets and reuse the projectiles. ill take turk ammo if yall want

[amafrank]

I've not seen any issues with bullet diameters. They are a bit short however which makes them tougher to load. The brass is not the issue with blowups as I've had customers with guns blown up from just about every year of production. All of them were not brittle brass problems. I've seen some powder charges that were clumpy and some like tar. Its also possible that primers are an issue in the blow ups and are certainly an issue in corrosion problems. My suggestion is that if you already bought it than either pull the bullets and burn the rest or sell it to one of those guys who has not yet blown something up and thinks the ammo is good.....I can't bring myself to sell any of it though. Despite my antisocial leanings I don't want to see anyone or anyones guns hurt.

Frank

[K98dkmauser]

dont shoot that turk ammo in anything

[marknct]

What is a fair price to pay for pull down ammo? I'm not looking to chisel anybody. It seems like the bullets are the only salvageable part of the cartridge.
Asking price was .26/rnd when we thought it was shootable.

[amafrank]

I suppose what you ought to do is look at what it would cost to buy the bullets you want from Hornady, Speer or Sierra. The 150gr turk bullets are quite short which makes them tougher to load and to find good loads for. If you can get heavier bullets for about the same price new then you're better off doing that. I wouldn't pay 26cents ea for turk bullets if I could buy new ones for a bit more. You must choose however and realize that pulling down the ammo takes time you could be doing other useful things. You will have to dispose of the brass and powder as well and depending on your location that could create problems.

good luck

Frank

[marknct]

Thanks for taking the time to help guys.
I pulled one bullet for curiosity sake. It doesn't go very far into the case, that must be why they do the 6 sided crimp. The crimp distorts the base of the bullet with uneven flats. The bullet measures 1.101" or 27.96 mm OAL. and is only .17" in the case.
As much as it makes me nuts i'll pass on these and put the money to Romy.