MG34 rewelds
Hi "Smoggle"smoggle wrote:I beleive they use a Phil. Ord. receiver.
TNW makes their own receiver because they tried to broach a Phili. Ord. receiver and it couldn't withstand the force required to broach the keyways. TNW has an outside shop "hog" the basic profile and then the first step in TNW's shop is to broach the keyways. They then complete the remaining profiling and machining.
A little info on TNW's MG42 -
The rear of the receiver, from the "trunion" back is machined by TNW in two halves and welded together. The receiver is original MG42 (or MG53) from the "Trunion" forward.
The fire control group is a "linear" striker with no hammer. There is no extension on the back of the bolt and the recoil spring is not modified from the original.
Regards,
Orin
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I'm suprised nobody went that route in the first place...that method would utilize the original sear to release the firing pin....what I don't understand is how something that is barely altered would be approved...so you do the bolt mods, the bolt block and make the pistol grip sear snasp down after pressing the trigger...anything else?
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So TNW's semi 42 is an open bolt, Slam firing, single shot?762x51 wrote:Hi "Smoggle"smoggle wrote:I beleive they use a Phil. Ord. receiver.
TNW makes their own receiver because they tried to broach a Phili. Ord. receiver and it couldn't withstand the force required to broach the keyways. TNW has an outside shop "hog" the basic profile and then the first step in TNW's shop is to broach the keyways. They then complete the remaining profiling and machining.
A little info on TNW's MG42 -
The rear of the receiver, from the "trunion" back is machined by TNW in two halves and welded together. The receiver is original MG42 (or MG53) from the "Trunion" forward.
The fire control group is a "linear" striker with no hammer. There is no extension on the back of the bolt and the recoil spring is not modified from the original.
Regards,
Orin
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I looked at a 34 cut receiver today and it looks like doing a reweld is possible. it will
involve some milling to clean up some areas and making some insert parts but it does
look like it is doable. A mandrel with copper inserts would have to be made to align
the parts and hold them securely. it would also be best to use as many parts from 1
receiver as possible. This is not a project for an inexperienced welderor / average home
builder though. the main problem will be to compensate for linear and axial shrinkage
of the welds, as they will be thick, and some areas will require more filler than others.
since the cost of a semi receiver is very high it seems like it would be worth the time
and expense to try.
involve some milling to clean up some areas and making some insert parts but it does
look like it is doable. A mandrel with copper inserts would have to be made to align
the parts and hold them securely. it would also be best to use as many parts from 1
receiver as possible. This is not a project for an inexperienced welderor / average home
builder though. the main problem will be to compensate for linear and axial shrinkage
of the welds, as they will be thick, and some areas will require more filler than others.
since the cost of a semi receiver is very high it seems like it would be worth the time
and expense to try.
Metal Shaper
A old fashioned metal shaper would help cut the internal railways for the MG34 bolt if using a Phila. Ordnance or a re-welded receiver.Attach a boring bar to the shaper.I just missed buying a benchtop shaper for only $350.
Picture of a benchtop metal shaper
This is the machine we need for cutting the internal railways of the receiver
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I have seen those receivers and they require a lot of work to complete. first the ID needs
to be bored out, then the bolt recesses need to be broached, there is a lot of metal to
remove and it all needs to be precision. This is a major machining operation requiring
a big lathe and equipmnet to make and operate a broach.
For those who want to do thier own receiver the most realistic approach is to get a cut
receiver and reweld / reconstruct it or get overlapping sections and reweld.
to be bored out, then the bolt recesses need to be broached, there is a lot of metal to
remove and it all needs to be precision. This is a major machining operation requiring
a big lathe and equipmnet to make and operate a broach.
For those who want to do thier own receiver the most realistic approach is to get a cut
receiver and reweld / reconstruct it or get overlapping sections and reweld.
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hey my machinist has one of those shapers
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I have the big lathe but I have to fix it.They sell a broaching attachment for my Bridgeport but when one was available used, the machinery store near me wanted $900 for it.
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Last edited by BELTLEAD on Sat Oct 08, 2005 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.