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Hi all, what's the general consensus on the MG34 produced by TNW? Am considering buying one. The good, bad or ugly. Thanks in advance!

I currently have two TNW MG34 semi-auto's. I had three but sold one and my Pirate Projects build. My TNW's shoot good. They needed about 100 rounds through each gun to get them worn in and loose enough to run. I have another kit that I am getting ready to send them for one more. They are good guns. The bolt is the part that can give you trouble but keep it clean it will work. Harry

If you are buying someone's safe queen, and it is second hand, check the trigger pull. TNW pioneered the marketing of a semi-34 made with real German parts, and to their credit they spent a ton and made some quality semi-parts for their conversions. However early their first generation FCG had a pretty hefty trigger pull, after some time (maybe a few years into production--it has been a while and my memory is foggy) they altered the design to have a slightly lighter trigger pull. Still pretty stiff, but hey thanks to them you can shoot an iconic and beautiful weapon for 1/10th what a full auto NFA registered one would cost.

Also if it is second hand, make sure you know who built it. TNW was VERY kind to sell their grip conversion parts for many years to builders (it was only like $150 for the kit), they also sold receivers, and some "seconds" receivers were rumored to be offered for a group buy on Weaponeer back in the day-not sure of they ever made it into circulation. Therefore know your seller, know what you are buying.

If it is brand new, then obviously the aforementioned is moot, and go for it

The second generation trigger has two rollers instead of one and that extra roller makes a difference in the trigger pull. TNW also made a "S" series receiver that was like a kit. You had to do a lot of work on them to make them work. I have eight of them sitting on my workbench that belong to a friend of mine who purchased them years ago and has never found anyone to get the parts from the kits to fit or get one put together. Not one of the pin holes are of the correct size and they have to be reamed to the proper size to fit the various pics required. Also the inside of the receiver that the bolt rides on is ROUGH. Another area that can be a problem is where the buffer fits into. Some receivers require a lot of grinding to get the buffer to fit. I finished up three already for him and have another eight to go. The "small parts kit" is the kit needed to do the semi-auto trigger and bolt. The bolt is a bear and I sent three to TNW to do rather than waste a lot of time converting them. The firing pin sear is in the semi-auto bolt and the trigger unit/rollers has to have a smooth surface to ride on. I have reworked mine and they have a really nice pull. I agree that if it is a safe queen it will need to be checked out and at least cleaned really well. The semi-auto is just as sensitive to dirt as the FA one. Smoothing the rails and the running surface of the inside of the receiver takes some time but it is worth it. Harry

I put it my order with TNW. 2-4 weeks leadtime. Figure I might try the MG42 myself, but would prefer to have experts deliver me the MG34. If for no other reason than I don't sacrifice perfectly good (and irreplaceable) original WW2 MG34 parts

It sounds like you have it worked out then, good! They are such a beautiful gun-almost a work of art, but I would not have wanted to been saddled with one on the Eastern Front, not as a bad as a Luger, but they like to be clean yet well lubricated.

To messerschmittfan
“ I have reworked mine and they have a really nice pull.”

Tell me about the trigger you reworked. Exactly what did you do? I am thinking to buy or build a MG34 semi and I am little leery of the trigger pull.

(The feds have NO excuses or feel sorry for yourself if you caught with a weapon going full auto, even if it is not your fault.)

All I need is a runaway felt belt weapon – NOT!!!!!!!!

Thanks, Robert

Just got my MG34 yesterday, woo-hoo! Couple questions. Charging this thing is tough! I mean, I really have to exercise arm strength to draw the bolt back. Is this normal, and should I start working out? It's got crud coming out of the various nooks and crannies of the MG. Is this old old old cosmoline? I'm surprised TNW didn't clean it up a bit better. And, ah, forgive my question, but is it ok to dry-fire it? Before I do that, I'd like to hear from the experts.

This is a two part answer as I tried to answer the trigger tuning and included an attachment that went into space somewhere. SO here are just the words. The area that the two rollers on the trigger bar ride on at the bottom of the receiver need to be polished. The rollers need to be oiled well and a light coat of grease applied to the polished area. I had one trigger that was sticking in the pistol grip opening that I also polished and blued afterwards that works great now. Lastly on the trigger be sure to check where the full auto portions were cut off to be sure the area is smooth. Now if I can get that trigger pull length solved I will be happy. On the newly received TNW gun that white stuff you are finding everywhere is from the blueing that was applied. I use a ear swab and WD40 to clean it all up. Be sure to remove the jacket from the receiver as that blue residue likes to collect on the pivot pin of the jacket and can make it difficult to get the jacket off in about three weeks. Best to do a complete strip of the gun and give it a good cleaning like you would any new gun coming into the collection. Harry

Forgot to address the cocking handle pull. It will take about 100 rounds through the gun to get it loosened up. To make it easier be sure to clean the lugs inside of the barrel that the bolt locks into. Put some LIGHT grease in there to get it to unlock easier. When I am breaking the gun in for about the first 50 rounds or so I dip the bolt in some engine oil and shoot it that way. It makes a mess but it helps keep the gun loose. Like I said once you run two belts through it, it should loosen up. Harry

The "cock on opening", against the mighty TNW firing pin spring, is what gives their MG34 its hard charging and trigger pull. Remember, the power of the round firing and barrel recoil has to re-cock the bolt with every shot.
The same spring certainly ensures that the firing pin is held retracted far from the bolt face until the sear is un-latched. In the TNW design, the latch is well shrouded and not likely to fire out of battery. And since it's striker-fired, as opposed to the hammer-fired MG42 system, it seems like it would be less likely for the firing pin to be stuck forward and set off every round in a belt, uh, automatically...
That said, always test out your new gun with the "one-round" belt. Then...two.
As messerschmittfan said, firing it often with plenty of lube will certainly break-in the stiff springs....Phil