Quality Old Style Bluing

[michaelangelo]

Hello,

I need to get my reproduction top cover blued. I have heard that there is someone in Oklahoma who does high quality old style bluing work. Does anyone on this site know of this man?

Michaelangelo

[Blanksguy]

I have not heard of anyone doing that type of work out in Oklahoma......but I'm sure that someone could do it.

I would tend to believe that if you post this question over on the Thompson-SMG Board at:
www.machinegunboards.com

...that the owners of Thompson Submachineguns will tend to spend a lot of money refinishing a 1921 Thompson (if required) and may know several very knowledgeable people that could/would do this type of quality work for you.

Regards, RichardS in Bay City, MI.
US Army, Retired
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I would also like to know where I can send a gun to be properly reblued, the way they were done back in the day.

[www.Prussia.us]

well DA, winter is approaching might be a good time to learn the age-old art of rust bluing; just kidding I gather you are way too busy for that and if the Germans stopped doing it on the Lugers in the late 30's I doubt the Mg34/42 had it, but a good skill to learn for a winter project.

[Franz20]

Hello all,

I haven't "Mastered" rust-bluing per say, but I think it came out pretty nice.

http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg4 ... 21aspx.jpg

Forgive the fingerprints on the finish, also the poor photo quality. I no longer own the pistol (traded it).

Rust Blue is best done with "Plinkingtons Rust Blue Solution".

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d9815.aspx

This is the best way to get a rust blue finish! It is durable, easy and VERY inexpensive. This is a watered down process.

1.) Clean the parts of all oil, grime etc.

2.) Remove old finish and polish. (I did a simple white vinegar and water bath for 10 minutes, it was completely gone).

3.) Clean the parts again, then dry.

4.) Apply the rust blue solution with a cotton ball, and lightly coat the parts in "one-way" strokes. As in (for the dirty minded), start from one end and apply until you reach the other end.

5.) Let the coated parts sit until a light, orange/rust color covers the pieces.

6.) Have a pot of boiled DISTILLED WATER ready and DIP the rusty parts in. Let them sit for no longer than 10 minutes, or until they turn BLACK.

7.) Remove the blackened parts from the water and card the finish with very fine (300-600 grit) sandpaper or steel wool. You will notice the steel has darkened from a bright polished silver to a slightly darker silver.

8.) Lather, rinse, repeat. (After carding the blackened rust solution, clean the surface off with a dry rag and re-apply the rust blue solution, let sit, re-dip in the distilled water etc..)

10.) Once you reach the desired darkness, simply coat the gun in oil (Drop that sum b*tch in a bucket of oil), to stop the rust process.

[Franz20]

Tips:

-DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR HANDS, the oils in your hands will affect the finish. Wear gloves.
-Keep a steady and maintain your brush on pattern.

-HAVE PATIENCE. It takes time, but you can take pride in completing a $250-$500.00 job in less than 6 months (what most of these guys quote).

-When you coat the parts with the solution, try to set the parts near a humid area of your home or workspace, so the rust covers the pieces completely.


Supplies:
-Stripped and polished gun parts
-Plinkingtons Rust Blue solution
-Cotton balls
-rubber gloves
-safe work surface
-distilled water
-pot or bowl (You can heat the water in a kettle, and pour into a heat safe bowl if you don't want to ruin a good pot).
-Sand paper or Steel wool (Both if you have it or a polishing wheel)
-Dry Rag
-Bag-o-patience

Optional:
Band-aids and 911 on speed dial (If you plan on grabbing the scalding pot with no safety equipment )-

If you have questions feel free to message me.

My sources, a close friend of mine who used to be a gunsmith and provide this service but has since retired.

Regards,

Franz

[www.Prussia.us]

Hey Franz,

That's what I am talking about, nicely done.

I used Laural Mountain on some Mausers, I never thought I would like something better than hot-dip-blue, but rust blue is the cat's meow, but it does take time.

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Thanks Franz und Freunden!

I will try my hand at rust bluing when I get the chance, but not on any nice guns right off.

[Franz20]

Not a problem. I re-blued my .25 Mauser pistol...because it was a .25 Mauser pistol (Was covered in rust). I would try to avoid practicing on anything of significant value.

Best of luck!

Franz

[mksshoot]

For those who want to send a firearm off for re-bluing and want superb craftmanship go to Glenrock Blue, located at 214 5th St. Glenrock Wyo. 82637 Phone # 307-436-2330 Fax 307-298-5210 E-Mail GlenrockBlue@Gmail.com