WW2 MG42 Original Finish for build?

[Patsy57]

Ok so I have an original WW2 AR marked late war (phosphate clear cote) marked receiver. I am in the process of rebuilding this bad boy to original working condition (semi auto though). That being said what finish should i go with? Let me know what you think, I am going for all original or near that if possible. All parts are German WW2 marked etc..

[robertmcw]

I have the same kit but mine is a dfb. I got from (RIP) Dan at Angola Armory way back. I am thinking to park it and Duracoat it. I am still tying to pick the color but I am looking at the same gray the MG3 color uses. It is not 1944 any more and the newer finishes will keep it safe from the elements for a second 60 years. I am going set up as 308 gun so I can use either belts or links. After all, this is the 21st century.

You can use the Duracoat color of the clear and the paint will hide the little imperfections.

Then I may give my semi grip stick with a lighter trigger job and add a hold back button on the bolt.

There was a guy using an mount so you can use an EOTECH (after removing the rear sight) but I he has dissapeared, so I need to find an new type mount for my EOTECH.

My 2 cents.

Robert McWhorter

[robertmcw]

Double Post, sorry.

[Patsy57]

No worries I really dont know what Im gonna do yet. Here is a pic of my receiver, you can see its definitely light phosphate (Clear) cote. Confusing!

[Bullwinkle]

There is some confussion on the light phosphate w/ clear coat. I personally dont believe it is actually a phosphate at all...Of the kits (from Dan and others) that I handled (about 50-60 in all) all the kits were bead blasted to bare steel and clear coated with various amounts of flash rust before the clear coat was applied.The clear coat will dissolve with the application of a solvent down to bare steel. use some carb cleaner, brake cleaner or stripper on your pieces and then see if they start to rust... It would appear that the kits were sent to the aresenal for rebuild for reserve war stocks and before they were rebuilt, they got sold. I have never seen a SILVER (light phosphate) receiver MG42/MG1,2,3 in the field. I have seen hundreds of blued MG42s and a LOT of Manganse (dark grey) and Zinc (lighter grey) phospahate receivers. Both turn green/grey with age. BUT NEVER SILVER/Silver GREY. I KNOW this the description used for these for years but I think it is incorrect. (like using Windex to clean weapons...internet myth that has been repeated so often it is taken for fact!)
For a WWII receiver, I would blast it down to bare steel with a very mild abrasive. Give a good polish with steel wool. Start with heavy wools and move to fine wools. Dont need a mirror finish. just smooth. I would RUST BLUE it. EASY process and if done correctly actually BETTER than HOT BLUE. Depending on your climate 6-10 applications of rust blue with carding (fancy word for brushing the fine rust particles off with a steel brush) in between each application. You end up with a smooth RUST COLORED RECIEVER. When the rust is applied deeply enough it will NOT rub off on your hands when completed! Boil receiver in water for about 30 minutes and it turns BLACK.....card again and use fine steel wool to polish it and you have a beautiful finish...it is EASY but takes about two-three weeks!!! (The application of the acid takes about 2 minutes on the reciver with a cotton ball, but letting the reciver sit for 12-24 hours or more and form flash rust takes all the time. Brushing the rust dust off takes about 10 minutes then you reapply the acid...and WAIT 12-24hrs....) It is terrifying appling the acid for the first 3-4 applications. You see a $1000 kit turn to a big canker sore of rust within hours...first couple of cardings and the apperance is splotchy and you think S%^&!! I have ruined it....but by the 4th or 5th rusting the surface is begining to smooth out and looks uniform, the color is actually uniform and you think...this MIGHT work..... once it wont rust anymore with the acid and carding doesnt produce dust...your ready to boil it. A Simple boil in water turns the rust to JET BLACK. Card this black dust off and youll have a rich black surface as pretty as any store bought firearm.

Dixie Gun works carries Rust blueing acid ($12-$22 for a small bottle.I like the Classic American Rust Bluing Solution. 1/4 bottle does one WHOLE MG!!!) Buy steel welding brushes from Home Depot or Lowes (same brush at 1/2 the prices that Brownells sells...) You will need several of various sizes. Cost you about $10 for under $50 you can blue your MG as good as the original!

[Patsy57]

Thanks!

[Bullwinkle]

Also....have your welder do a LIGHT pass with a TIG over the post war Bund Eagle on the bottom right of your receiver in the picture. Use a light sanding disk to smooth the weld, thereby removing the post war stamp! Your going to too much trouble to recreate a WWII cira correct piece to not remove this post war mark!! Good luck and email a list of the WWII your still looking for. I may have a few spares for you at better prices than GB.

[Patsy57]

Bullwinkle
That eagle is post war?

[42rocker]

The Eagle like mark lower right in the above pic with a 84 is post war. Rest are war time.

Later 42rocker

[Bullwinkle]

42Rocker is correct. THAT eagle is modern era German Army Property mark. Light TIG and sand....

[anjongni]

Nothing looks nicer than a blued receiver. Unfortunately the "tiger stripes" from the stainless rod on my Dangola gave away the fact that it's just a reweld after all. I kinda like the battlefield pickup look. I've done pretty well sandblasting after all the work is done, then painting it with gloss black lacquer - the cheapest, thinnest rattle-can stuff you can find. Force-dry it with a heat gun. Then go after it with oooo steel wool, little carb cleaner, some WD40, in the sink under running water. Down to the metal on sharp corners and where the hand would grasp the shroud. Shiny in places, dull/rusty in others. Avoid going too deep where the diagonal welds are so they don't get exposed. Oil, chemicals, water, heat, abrasion - all the battlefield conditions reproduced in a couple hours. Then clean all the mess up, blow it off, oil it well, and voila', fresh from the Russian front.....Phil

[42rocker]

Interesting way to make a finish. Thanks for sharing that.

Later 42rocker

[marknct]

Bullwinkle
The "Windex with ammonia" doesn't work as a first line defense with corrosive ammo? I read that in the BRP manual and took it as fact. What do you use if you can't clean it within the first few hours?
The rust bluing sounds interesting. Do you find it resists rust better than Park?