www.MG42.us

Well, I made it threw the 8mm trials and got the beast functioning with 8mm and 308. Only probs I had were belt related - I got a smokin deal at the gunshow on 308 postwar belts and the gun hates them. After I went back to wwII belts she ran great.

I have noticed my FP is peened a bit on both ends. I need to get it harder than it comes stock as drill rod (which is pretty hard stuff to start with).

I can heat it with a torch and quench it but how good is this for a heat treatment method?

Is there a better way?

Ok..here is the thing..depending on which type of material you are useing depends on whether you can heat treat it..You need to use a heat treatable steel like A2 or 01...What type of stock are you trying to harden??

GSD, heat the end till it is orange and quench in oil. polish and reheat till it is a straw color then quench again.

GSD,

My BRP likes the WWII belts MUCH better than the post war belts. They will run with 8mm, but I do get some FTF from the belts. When I run 7.62mm, the post war belts run fine with the 8mm Top Cover. Go figure I guess???

I got in on the Weaponeer's Group Buy on 10 post war belts for $50 and I received 7 WWII Belts and 3 post war belts. I was a happy camper with this deal! I now have enough belts to last more than my lifetime!

gunslinger ,buy some KASENIT .heat the part red qwench in water, then reheat, dip in kasenit and reheat red, them qwench in water again . this will give the the beast hardness for a firing pin

j. bergmann wrote:gunslinger ,buy some KASENIT .heat the part red qwench in water, then reheat, dip in kasenit and reheat red, them qwench in water again . this will give the the beast hardness for a firing pin

He said he is using drill rod, you don't need kasenit, that is for cold rolled steel or other non hardening steel..it only puts a couple thousandths of hard skin on and isn't really for an application like this.

Thanks guys.

Ab - not to make you feel bad, but ALL of my Weaponeer GB belts were as NEW GREASY as hell, WWII belts!

Great deal!

Hopefully they'll run another one....

Guys..if he is using drill rod and he heats it..he is drawing it back because its already hard.Your better off useing an air hardening tool steel like A2 ,the only problem is controlling the hardness.A2 is available thru MSC ..www.MSC-direct.com. I used an ejector sleeve and turned down the original fireing pin then pressed it into the end and silversoldered it in place. Then turned down the head of the sleeve to Johns #'s and turned down a 2 inch 3/16 dowel pin to press in that end. Cross pinned it in just in case and Walaa!! Firing pin!!!

HerrMueller wrote:Guys..if he is using drill rod and he heats it..he is drawing it back because its already hard.Your better off useing an air hardening tool steel like A2 ,the only problem is controlling the hardness.A2 is available thru MSC ..www.MSC-direct.com. I used an ejector sleeve and turned down the original fireing pin then pressed it into the end and silversoldered it in place. Then turned down the head of the sleeve to Johns #'s and turned down a 2 inch 3/16 dowel pin to press in that end. Cross pinned it in just in case and Walaa!! Firing pin!!!

Drill rod comes unhardened. you need to heat it, quench it then reheat and quench to temper it.

Sorry for the misconception...We use the term "round stock" in our shop..my mistake. I thought he was referring to a drill blank..Which is hard.