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Looks nice, great job. Yeah these builds are a lot of fun and can be addicting. My first one had me wondering at times why I ever considered building it during the frustrating parts...then when I was done I wanted to do another .

IMO at the point you are at on the build I would just get the C/H opening started and roughed in is about all I'd do. This is just to make it easier because to get the opening started with hand tools from the inside is easier, later all the finishing and final opening can be done from the outside. O...

Yes they are top notch and very high quality, right down to the paper. John is fast to ship as well. Anyone considering buying or building an MG42/53/3 whether it is a FA or semi needs to get these to understand the workings of the gun. We are very lucky to have such a well knowledged astute member.

Is the barrel intact or demilled? is it 8mm?

Der Alder, Thanks so much for the layout for "weld" and "don't weld". I see the raised area's on the bottom of the shells are being welded together.. I thought most of that would be cutout for the grip stick? Or is it just for support thru the cutting process until the opening for the ejection port...

I grabbed some buttsocks and buffers to check this out. All three of my Yugo buffers fit well in the mg3 receiver stubs. However swapping Yugo buffers into German and Austrian stocks is tight and leaves a gap. Attempted mg3 buffer into three Yugo stocks and none started. Just another bit of trivia....

I'm hoping to be able to use the MG 53 stock, as I've already begun refinishing the wooden stock. Didn't I see in one of the older posts/builds that another builder had the problem of the Yugo buffer not wanting to fit, and he turned the buffer down a bit to get it fitting correctly? Keep in mind t...

NOTE!! For Yugo kit owners Adler's approach uses the barrel bushing from the MG3 variant as well as an MG3 rear section w/ the buffer tabs. The Yugo M53 buffer will NOT fit up with the MG3 buffer tabs (or the MG42 for that matter). I used to think that the Yugo buffers would not fit either till I t...

Road Runner and Rodom have me thinking,,, Those are good points they make. I didn't really think about the fact that the title of this thread is "receivers from BRP", then we have since changed courses from the beginning and are now using the GM shells. That might be confusing to someone just walkin...

But first; Remember the theme of this build is "short cut/garage build", as in using the super easy to install MG3 front bushing all the way back to the MG3 rear receiver stub (no riveting). That and this build will be done with hand tools, no mill needed. I am in no way saying this is the best way ...

Bravo! We've lost so many photos over the years- you guys keep up the photo study and discussion to rebuild the lessons! That's what I'm thinking. Lets use Rodom's build to do an updated semi build. We have had some fantastic tutorial builds here over the years, Pirate, Oak, Flem, Road Runner, the ...

That looks really nice.

One other thing you could do is put weld bead around the end of the shroud and build it up to where you need it, square it back up, then weld it on.

On the welds getting inside...generally you can get in the areas you need to if you need to grind some with a dremel and a stone. What I like to do is through out the milling and cutting processes is save the partly used dremel cut off wheels. These can be used to get into tight areas if need be. Al...

Yeah, yours is looking good. Looks like you have a nice shroud, the rear is cut decent. Many are cut shorter through the camming window. Yours is what I look for when buying. I've found a lot of measurements for these guns are a mix of metric and inches. Thats probably due to many come from German m...

I've been away for a while with hunting and getting ready for winter. My wife keeps making plans for my spare time..lol. Thats cool you got the parts from RTG. The front bushing probably seems too large because you most likely need to trim back the front, but first we need to determine how much need...

Without seeing what you mean, I would cut just enough off the shrouds end to square it, then trim the GM shells to match it (later). Cutting crooked to match the parts IMO would be hard to keep straight. It's hard enough just to make it square and straight with flat surfaces (by hand), adding an ang...

Depending on how much of your shroud is left after its square, is what determines for me where my splice will be. My first build was right under the camming piece to the rear of the pads stamped into the shroud. This last one I'm working on was a tad longer after it was squared so I'll have the spli...

I've been away from the computer for a few days, didn't mean to leave you hanging. Thanks for the offer on your computer tech skills. Maybe someday one of us here could use them. You are not boring us at all BTW :D , glad to see you are taking this semi build on and posting it here :wnana: . Sometim...

The screws I used on the rails can be found at home depot. They are marked on the packet; Cap screw/Button socket #6-32 x 1/2" 3.5. You can also buy the drill and tap for them as a set there too; Dewalt 6-32 nc drill bit #36 SAE. The screws come in packs of 2, you will need 10, I'd suggest 12-14 for...