High speed photography would solve this question immediately. Try putting a rubber pad (piece of radiator hose or similar) on the front of the trigger guard to see if the brass is twirling into it upon ejection.

we're all still here, there's just not much going on here for the summer.

Bil, the bolt I got from you was an MG3 bolt with the spring loaded feed pin, but it was the same weight as the standard WWII bolts. I've seen 3 bolt weights, but I've never seen a buffer made to take the pounding from the heavier bolts. Without that, using a heavier than standard bolt is just askin...

I thought it was 10 years and $250,000?

A trigger pack AND a full auto style bolt can enable an H & K semi receiver to fire full auto. The term "registered" needs to be defined. You're using it to include "research" parts made by an SOT, while most people use it as meaning that it is a transferable item, that is, a...

Salt6 lives! Welcome home, friend.

Conversely to the above possibility, it could have been a registered machine gun, and the guy made a semi auto kit that works in the MG receiver. It's perfectly legal to do that, just not the other way around.

A few drops of oil at the pivot points should prevent the trigger group from sticking for years. Glad to hear that all is well.

Someone on ebay.de was selling them several months ago. I suggest you check there.

Picture 3 is a combination tool for ruptured case extraction and extractor changing. I think the tool above it in picture 5 with the handle and L shaped is used to compress the spring for assembling the rear sight. L shaped tool in picture 1 is a bore/chamber mirror. Picture 6 - front sight adjustme...

If someone has the manual (TDV 4933/022-12), I know someone who could translate it.

The charging handle bar is indeed supposed to be straight. Of course, when the bolt is pulled fully rearward, it is caught by the sear in the trigger group. You'll need to look there for the cause of the problem. Of the two tabs that protrude downward from the bolt body, the rearward tab is caught b...

take off the buttstock, buffer and recoil spring, then remove the trigger group and take out the bolt if it will come out. You may have to manipulate the charging handle to get the bolt out. I'm guessing the charging handle is in crooked.

The "rail" with the hooked end that you are seeing is part of the charging handle. It's not in the position it is supposed to be in for a functioning gun. I'm not familiar with UK rules for deactivating guns, so I can't say whether or how your gun should function. The safety won't operate ...

The single best MG42 manual I have would be HDv 241. Each has some details not covered in the other manuals, but for an operator manual, HDv 241 is tops. It covers all the basics that the shooter needs to know.

Sharing information is what we're here for. Read everything ask questions as needed.

At my local paint shop, the device they put the color chip into is smaller than a microwave oven. I doubt they'd have something big enough to put the twin mount in.

I'd suggest cleaning the chamber of one of the problem barrels. Put a stainless steel bore brush on a rod, put the rod in an electric drill, and run it in and out for 30 seconds or so while squirting some bore cleaner on it. The shell might be sticking in the chamber causing it to pull apart. I had ...

take a paint chip to the paint store and have them put it in their machine to match it.

Barrels get the headspace checked with each bolt. Check each barrel with every bolt you have. Is that what you did?